Kluane National Park Reserve Icefield Mountaineering Statistics, 1996. During the spring and summer of 1996 there were 45 mountaineering expeditions, comprising 161 persons, that ventured into the Saint Elias Mountains of Kluane National Park. The...
California, Sierra Nevada—North Palisade Peak—On 7 July, John Findley Scott (23) and party of five other persons were ascending North Palisade. Near summit a handhold that Scott grasped came loose and Scott fell some 40 feet to a narrow ledge. He ...
Mount Steele, East Ridge in Winter, 1982. On December 28 a helicopter of Trans North Turbo Air dropped us at Base Camp on the Steele Glacier. We were Jirí Kohout, leader, his brother Ivan, Ivan Bohácek, Josef Rubín and me. We spent that night in o...
KR-7 and KR-8, Lahul. Two parties operated in the Koa Rong valley, both of which succeeded in climbing hitherto unclimbed peaks. On August 19, three members of the Japanese expedition led by Kiyoshi Ishii completed the first ascent of difficult KR...
SLIP ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AndromedaOn July 21, 1979, after climbing Mt. Andromeda via the Skyladder, Slawomir Lobdozinski and Jennifer Smith (ages unknown) of Edmonton were descending a gully into the Androm- eda-...
Ganesh III, First Ascent, North Ridge. Ganesh III had unsuccessfully been attempted six times before our expedition: 1953, spring, New Zealanders, north ridge to 18,000 feet; 1954, spring, Japanese, northwest ridge; 1971, spring, Japanese, northea...
Bugaboo and Vowell Groups, Purcells. During the second week of July Earle Whipple, Bob Page, Arnold Guess, and Bill Buckingham packed nearly a month’s food to Boulder Camp in the Bugaboos. For the next two weeks we familiarized ourselves with the ...
K2, Abruzzi Ridge. It was reported that Japanese Masafumi Todaka had planned a solo ascent of the unrepeated Kukuczka-Piotrowski route on the south face in three days with bivouacs at 6800 meters and 7900 meters, but unsettled weather and deep sno...
Guillaumet and Fitz Roy. At the end of September, Silvia FitzPatrick and I climbed the Aguja Guillaumet by the French couloir. For Silvia, this was her first Patagonian summit. We returned twice to Guillaumet and made a new variant on the northeas...
Shishapangma Attempt. Our Shishapangma (Xixabangma) expedition degenerated into a reconnaissance when a number of the expedition could not go. Although technically easy, the route on the mountain is not free of objective danger. A large slab avala...
California, Half Dome, Yosemite National Park. On 31 March Larry Greene (29) and Edwin Hermans, Jr. (24) were climbing on Half Dome. It is impossible to reconstruct exact sequence of events. Accident scene was at lower end of steep avalanche gully...
Climbs in Colorado National Monument. Mike Colocino and Calvin Herbert climbed Tunnel Vision (III, 5.10 +, A1,4pitches). The route ascends the second crack system right of the tunnel located right of Ribbed Buttress. Fred Knapp, Sharon Sadleir, Ju...
P 6115, Sargent Icefield, Kenai Peninsula. P 6115, between the Ellsworth Glacier and the Sargent Icefield and the highest in the Sargent Icefield region, was climbed for the first time by Fred Woelkers and Fred Moore. They were flown on March 10 t...
Ama Dablam in the Post-Monsoon. As the season began, the Nepalese authorities expected 16 teams to come to Ama Dablam (6812m), but they continued to grant permits to everyone who asked for them, and by the time autumn ended, an all-time high numbe...
Nun, East Ridge Attempt. In September the weather was fine and we climbed a number of peaks in Kashmir. By early October there was much unsettled cold weather. We reached 21,000 feet on the east ridge of Nun and bivouacked there for three days in ...
Ama Dablam, Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. German Günther Härter led an expedition of six Germans, 4 Austrians and an Italian which climbed Ama Dablam by its southwest ridge. The summit was reached on October 22 by Härter, Austrian Peter Konzer...
Mount Logan. A few parties climbed Mount Logan, all by the King Trench route. A Japanese group led by Seiichiro Takai, was on the mountain from June 25 to July 9. A Kluane National Park Warden Service expedition of four members was led by me. Ron ...
Pumori Winter Attempt. Glenn Rowley led a group of 14 English climbers on the normal southeast face of Pumori. They were unsuccessful, reaching 6250 meters on December 2.Elizabeth Hawley
Ndoto Mountains, Manamonet, Maximum Miracle Centre. The British team of Toby Dunn, Alex Jakubowski, and Ben Winston, climbed a virgin wall, Manamonet: E5 6b. See “Maximum Miracle Centre” feature article earlier in this Journal.
Swargarohini. On October 25, 1974, Englishman Charles Clarke, Canadians Dilsher Singh Virk, Peter Fuhrman and Bruce MacKinnon and Indians Mohan Singh and Rattan Singh made the first ascent of Swargarohini’s western summit from Camp IV at 17,700 fe...