Chopicalqui. On July 1 Walter Herrmann, Jack Hickman, Robert Kyrlach, David Mattox and I from Albuquerque and Hermann Denk of Munich, Germany were trucked up to the Llanganuco Lakes and headed toward the Portachuelo, leaving the pack trail where i...
Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Russian Direct. Alexander Odintsov, Igor Potankin, Ivan Samoilenko (high-altitude cameraman) and Yuri Koshelenko arrived at Base Camp on July 7. From July 15-August 10, the team established The Russian Way (VII ...
Istor-o-Nal. The Kwansei Gakuin University expedition made an attempt on Istor-o-Nal. The leader was Akira Nomura and the other members were Yoshihiko Ogawa, Takashi Morimoto, Yasumasa Nakai, Koji Miyazaki and the Afghan liaison officer Khalid Lat...
Nuptse West Summit. A Korean expedition led by Cho Hyung-Kyu made the first ascent of the west summit of Nuptse (7784 meters, 25,538 feet), climbing the northwest ridge. On December 22, Chun Bong-Gon, Bae Hyun-Jong, Kim Hwa-Gon, Oh Se-Cheul, Lhakp...
Fox Jaw Cirque, six first ascents. In mid-June, Josh Beckner, Darcy Deutcher, Kadin Panagoulis, Jed Porter, Annie Trujillo, and I stepped off a boat and schlepped seven miles into the Fox Jaw Cirque in the Tasiilaq Fjord Area. First reports of cli...
FALL ON ROCK, EXPOSURE, DARKNESS Nevada, Red Rocks Canyon, EpinephrineOn October 30, climbers Joel Geerling (24) and Chris Pannucci (25) left the Black Velvet Canyon parking lot at 0530, arriving at the base of 18-pitch Epinephrine (5.9) by 0630. ...
Mount Lempriere, Monashee Range. The northern Monashee Range runs parallel to the Canadian Rockies. Its sedimentary and metamorphic rock has limited technical climbing. Yet, there are high alpine peaks with important glaciers and steep, imposing f...
Uja Tirche. The objective of Ajit Shelat and me was Uja Tirche (6202 meters, 20,348 feet) in eastern Garhwal. It lies on the Siruanch Glacier. Ours was the third ascent, following the Scots Weir and Murray in 1950 and a team from Calcutta in 1974....
Mercedario, La Conquista del Poniente. This mountain (6,770m), in Provincia de San Juan, is similar to Aconcagua in height, glaciers, and difficulties, but it hasn’t had as many ascents. In 1999 a team of four from the city of San Juan went to the...
Maine: (1) Appalachian Mountains, Mt . Katahdin. On 18 March 1951 seven students of the Phillips Exeter Academy Mountaineering Club slid about 1,000 feet in a snow avalanche which they touched off during a winter ascent of this 5,268-foot mountain...
In summer Cerro Acay, southeast of San Antonio de los Cobres, in the province of Salta, is generally a barren rounded hill, which was first summited by the Incas for religious purposes. However, on February 13 Gustavo González and friend, reside...
Gasherbrum II. This mountain is now frequently ascended. Some climbs are noted elsewhere in this journal. See reports by the French and Yugoslavs. Spaniards Juan del Olmo and Roberto Vâsquez reached the summit on July 9. Tragically the expedition ...
Summits and Secrets, by Kurt Diemberger. Translated from the German by Hugh Merrick. London: George Allen & Unwin Ltd, 1971. 344 pages, 78 photographs, 8 maps and sketches. £ 5.50 (about $15)There cannot be many mountaineering autobiographies ...
Climbs in the Sierra Nevada. The Sierra high country experienced a great deal of climber activity during the summer of 1994, but little energy was expended on new routes. The 1993 publication of Sierra Classics may have inspired climbers to plan t...
Tagne and Sagar, first ascents. A team of young climbers from Imperial College of London made a highly exploratory visit to the fairly recently de-restricted area north of the Kunzum La. The peaks here are non-technical and rather arid, the weathe...
Kagbhusand. A seven-member team sponsored by the Himalayan Club and led by Divyesh Muni climbed Kagbhusand (5830 meters, 19,128 feet). Base camp was placed on September 12 at 4000 meters between Thur Udiar and Eri Udiar in the Amrit Ganga valley. ...
Overview of Indian Expeditions. Seventy five Indian expeditions were organized by various clubs and associations within the country. In addition there were three expeditions organized by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, bringing the total to ...
Koh-i-Bandaka Zeraghau, Northeast Ridge. We approached the Bandaka massif from the south, driving from Kabul up the Kunar River and then up the Bashgal to Kamdesh, where a washout prevented further progress by vehicle. We hiked up the Bashgal and ...
WILLIAM B. BRYAN 1928-1988William B. Bryan died in Portland, Oregon on February 24 in his 61st year. Bill was bom and raised in Hood River, Oregon, where he was a long-time member of the Crag Rats, the important mountain rescue and climbing organi...
Kluane National Park Reserve Icefield Mountaineering Statistics, 1996. During the spring and summer of 1996 there were 45 mountaineering expeditions, comprising 161 persons, that ventured into the Saint Elias Mountains of Kluane National Park. The...