IAN WATTS 1960-1988Ian Watts died on January 17 while attempting the Zurbriggen Ridge on Mount Cook in New Zealand. He was last seen at the foot of the ridge near dawn. It is believed that he and his two companions were struck by an avalanche duri...
St. Elias Mountains, Various Ascents. On April 9, our pilot, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters, landed us in the remote mountain wilderness of the Canadian St. Elias Range to fend for ourselves for a few weeks. Bill Hartlieb, Ron Gregg, Carl S...
California, Mt. Diablo—Devil’s Pulpit—On 14 July, Larry D. Robinson (19) with little experience and apparently climbing alone fell while ascending the Devil’s Pulpit. His fall was either due to a slip or a handhold coming loose. He suffered possib...
Kronprins Frederik Bjerge, Various Ascents. The Tangent British East Greenland Expedition 1996 visited the Kronprins Frederik Bjerge, using a base camp at N.67°11'56” W.35°06’30”. From there and several other camps a total of 55 first ascents were...
Ice Climbing in Colorado, Correction. On page 194 in A.A.J., 1981 Parachute Creek Canyon unfortunately was called Paradise Creek Canyon.
Utah, Provo Canyon, Bridal Veil Falls—On November 22, Allan H. Warren (23) and Larry G. Anderson (19), were cliff climbing on the west side of Bridal Veil Falls. They were near the top of the falls when they attempted to climb around an icy cliff....
Pasang Lhamu Chuli, south ridge attempt. The three-man Italian team of Alois Brugger, Hans Kammerlander, and Karl Unterkircher attempted the south ridge of 7,350m Pasang Lhamu Chuli (formerly Jasamba). [They were seemingly unaware at the time that...
Ascents in the CB Group. Seven Japanese led by Kazuo Oku climbed CB-13 (6264 meters, 20,550 feet) via the north ridge. On August 7 Akira Yokoyama, Miss Kaori Tuji, Makoto Simoto, Takasi Kawanabe and porter Ravi Prakash Negi reached the summit. Oth...
CLIMBING ALONE, UNKNOWN CAUSEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Columbia IcefieldsOn July 21, 1979, Chris Caraley (age unknown) of New York left word with people he met in the Icefields Campground that he planned to solo the north bowl of Mt. Andromeda, tr...
SLIP ON ROCK, UNROPED, NO HARD HATOntario, Milton, Buffalo CragOn Sunday, March 28 F.M. (26) was scouting out the cliff top at Buffalo Crag, apparently hoping to set up a top rope on a climb called “Rainy Day Women.” He had on a harness but was no...
Pasang Lhamu Chuli, first ascent of southwest face and south pillar. After attempts in 2005 and 2006, Hans Kammerlander finally climbed the southwest face and south pillar of Pasang Lhamu Chuli (7,351m), a peak immediately southwest of Cho Oyu. It...
First Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. The first ascent of Mt. Sparrowhawk was accomplished on 24 May 1947, via Kananaskis Valley, by R. Hind, L. Parker, and Mr. and Mrs. H. H. Rans.It is reported that the first ascent of Brussels Peak was made in...
Ganesh III Attempt. By the summer of 1981, Ganesh III (7132 meters, 23,400 feet) was still unclimbed despite two Japanese attempts in 1980 and another in the spring of 1981. An expedition of ten Japanese and two Nepalese, led by Hiroyasu Shirakabe...
Mount Cooper, Southern Lakes Group, Selkirks. Two unsuccessful attempts were made during 1958 on unclimbed Mount Cooper (10,000 feet), the highest peak in the Southern Lakes Group of the Selkirks. The first attempt was made in late June by A.A.C. ...
K2, Ascent and Tragedy. Italian climber Lorenzo Mazzoleni, 30, died on July 29 in a fall from the Shoulder (8000 m) after having successfully climbed K2 via the Abruzzi. According to sources, Lorenzo, along with three others, reached the summit at...
Siulá Grande and Other Climbs. Simon Yates and I established Base Camp beneath the lake, Sarapoqocha, at 4500 meters after a two-day walk from the Cajatambo roadhead. Two days later, on May 17, we took an acclimatization climb on Rosario to 150 me...
Cordillera Real and the Cordillera de la Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents. On June 1, the Salt Lake-based team of Ben Folsom, Steven Su, and Andy Gresh arrived in La Paz, Bolivia, intending to do lightweight ascents in the Cordillera Real and the Cord...
Aguja Guillaumet and Gorra Blanca. A seven-man, two-woman expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche, with Victor Krajcirick as leader, entered the Chalten (Fitzroy) massif by way of Piedra del Fraile, where they established Base Camp. Bad weather he...
RAPPEL FAILURE, OFF ROUTE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION AND EQUIPMENT, FATIGUE, ILLNESSCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn April 23, 1984, about 1900 hours, Donald W. Barnett (39) took a fatal fall of approximately 50 meters from about mid-point of a...
Shisha Pangma. Reinhold Messner climbed his eighth 8000er during the pre-monsoon season. He and his fellow South-Tyrolean, Friedl Mutschlechner, reached the summit (8012 meters, 26,286 feet) from the Tibetan side. Also members of the expedition we...