Shipton Spire (Hainabrakk), Fragments of Freedom. Our team of four climbers from the Moscow Karakoram Expedition— Denis Savelyev (leader), Evgeny Korol, Andrew Muryshev, and Sergey Nilov— ascended a new line called Fragments of Freedom on Hainabra...
Number ofTotalAccidents ReportedPersons InvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164019119...
My Tibet. Text by His Holiness The Fourteenth Dalai Lama of Tibet. Photographs and Introduction by Galen Rowell. Mountain Light Press, published by the University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, 1990. Large Format, 162 pages, 117 co...
Mera Peak (6,470m), south ridge, In Memoriam. From October 29 to 31 I climbed a new route, solo, on the right side of Mera Peak’s southwest face. I named it In Memoriam, as a tribute to Mal Duff and Ian “Tat” Tattersall; the only other route on th...
WILLIAM WILLIAMS 1862-1947William Williams was born in New London, Conn., on 2 June 1862, a son of Charles Augustus and Elizabeth Hoyt Williams. He was a descendant of William Williams who signed the Declaration of Independence. A bachelor, he di...
FALL/SLIP ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—Washington, Mt. Rainier. Frederick Hamly (35) was cleaning a billy pot at Camp Hazard (11,000 feet). He was a member of an RMI expedition seminar. The top of the pot got away from him, and as h...
Narsap Sarqa Fjord, Various Ascents. It was reported that Britans Chris Bedford, Simon Inger, Henry Lickorish and Alastair Mitchell operated out of the head of Narsap Sarqa Fjord from July 24 to August 13 and made first ascents of the following: A...
Mt. Ruoni, attempt. The Kangri Garpo Range is located in the Zayul and Bomi Counties of Eastern Tibet. Since this region is close to the borders with both India and Myanmar, it has remained strictly off-limits to foreigners for many years. Even no...
Peaks Twelve Kilometers West of Pik Pobedy, Tien Shan. Our expedition was composed of Austrians Leo Baumgartner, leader, Dr. Andreas Paul, Gernot Madritsch, Hubert Engl, Heli Ortner, Netherlander Ton Biesemaan and Germans Tom Stöger and me. On Sep...
North Chasm View Wall, 8th Voyage, Black Canyon of the Gunnison. The 8th Voyage is a VI, 5.11d route located on North Chasm View Wall. It was put up by Jim Dunn and me in September. The route is located between the Stoned Oven and the Air Voyage. ...
Utah, Salt Lake City, Petes Rock—On January 11, Curtis Hawkins (18), and Dick Wallin (16) were climbing on Pete’s Rock. They had been climbing for about one and a half hours before the accident. During this time Hawkins had been trying a lead on R...
Tengkangpoche, attempts on north side. As of the close of 2005 Tengkangpoche (6,487m), west of Namche Bazar, had been attempted by eight expeditions since it was brought onto the permitted list in 2002. All but one of these tried to climb the impr...
Gongstang, Lahul. An expedition led by Ashim Kumar Gosh Chowdhary approached Gangstang (6162 meters, 20,216 feet) via the Nisang valley. Four members reached the summit on September 2.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. KitchenerOn February 28, 1979, Scott Gilbert and Tom Pulaski, both of Denver, Colorado, left Highway 93 and started up the normal approach to the north face of Mt. Kitchener. Approximately 300 yards off the h...
WEATHERBritish Columbia, Comox, Mount Albert-EdwardThree climbers were reported overdue on September 17. They had been attempting a four- to five-day traverse which involved glacier travel in the Mount Albert-Edward area in the Comox region of Van...
Jasmaba Goth, west ridge attempt. Jasamba Goth is the name given to the 6,730m shoulder toward the end of the long northwest ridge of Pasang Lhamu Chuli, where the ridge splits into two branches; one falling north of west and the other south of we...
Glacier Camp of the A.A.C. The 1947 camp of the Alpine Club of Canada was held at Glacier from July 13th to July 26th. It was located on the old Canadian Pacific Railway Glacier House site, as were the Sir Donald Camp of 1932 and the Arthur O. Whe...
Langtang Ri. Virgin Langtang Ri (7239 meters, 23,750 feet) was climbed by its south ridge by a joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition led by Hideyuki Uematsu. Base Camp was established on September 20. On September 30, immediately after the big storm,...
Sorcerer Group, Selkirks. On August 20, W. S. Litterick and William J. Buckingham made the first ascent of “Mount Merlin” (9334 feet), between Fang Rock and Mount Graham. From Flat Creek Station we packed in to camp near the mouth of Farm Creek. W...
K2, South-Southeast Ridge, Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Yamamoto Atushi (33) put 12 members on the summit of K2 and recorded the third and fifth ascents of K-2’s south-southeast ridge. Deputy leader Matsubara Masayuki (31) led a team of si...