Chopicalqui, Cordillera Blanca. On July 12 Dr. Alan Cooper, Jim Janney, Bill Phillips and I reached the previously unclimbed summit of the spectacular gendarme of approximately 20,000 feet which rises about 400 feet above the north ridge. Except f...
FALLING ROCKNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Sam’s Swan SongOn May 17, John Bouchard and Mark Richey were climbing fast in preparation for an attempt on the Himalayan peak Latok. High on the cliff, Mark was climbing second to John when a large flake M...
Chomo Lonzo North, southwest face to summit ridge. Although we left Kathmandu on April 15, it was not until the 24th that I arrived at my 4,750m base camp below Chomo Lonzo. There had been so much snow on the approach that in places I had to break...
Colorado Mountain Club. 1962 has been the Fiftieth Anniversary Year of the Colorado Mountain Club, and during the year the members joined an increased number of activities to promote climbing, to enhance mountaineering safety, and to make the gene...
Mount Redoubt, East Face, Ramparts. The great Rampart walls of Oubliette, Dungeon and Redoubt rise some 3000 feet above Amethyst Lake, one of the grandest sights in the mountains of Canada. The magnificent buttress on the east face of Redoubt seem...
The Three Gargoyles. This new tower route in Arches National Park is on the same formation as Zenyatta Endrada, around the right, or southeast, side, and was established by Jimmy Dunn, Hellen Heaven, Joe Slansky, and Bill Guymon. It climbs the tow...
Horn SpireCraig Lingle, UnaffiliatedTHIRTY miles north of Juneau, Horn Spire towers above the junction of the Thiel and Battle Glaciers. A triple-edged blade of rock, its 6700-foot summit stands 4700 feet above the valley glaciers below. Cliffs an...
Broad Peak Central from China Oscar Cadiach, Centre Excursionista de Tarragona, SpainDuring A THIRD SUMMIT ATTEMPT frustrated by bad weather, five of us were trapped for four days at Camp III at 7350 meters. Out of food and fuel, we had no choice....
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 31 January Peter Catelli, Peter Bradford, Craig Fournier, and Robert Koppe left the Glen House for a three day trip above timberline. Their planned route was to traverse the range from Mt. Madison to Crawford Notc...
Angel Wings, Right Wing. Chris LaBounty and I made the first ascent of the Right Wing (IV 5.10d) on Angel Wings on July 15. This route ascends the striking arête to the right (east) of the South Arête. We approached from the start of the South Arê...
SLIP ON SNOW, ICE AXES IN PACKS, FATIGUE Alaska, Mount McKinleyThe four members of the Utah Exploration Society flew into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on May 4, 1983, to climb the Wickersham Wall on Mount McKinley. The expedition cli...
Achla Valley. The Kraków expedition led by Jerzy Wala, which has been described above as the first expedition in the Munjan Hindu Kush, was also active in the Achla valley, west of Sudgul village in the Landay Sin and three miles north of Barge Ma...
Baintha Brakk or The Ogre. Our expedition was made up of Kimio Itokawa, Shiro Aoki, Tetsuji Furuta, Toshiro Kitamura, Shosaku Kato, Masanobu Yonezawa and me as leader. We left Skardu on June 2 and traveled past Askole to Base Camp, which was estab...
South Continental Tower, Continental Drifters. From the idyllic upper meadows of the Little Sandy Valley, the South Continental Tower consists of a lower west-facing wall separated from the freestanding summit pinnacle by a large talus bench. In 1...
“The Matterhunk” is our unofficial name for the huge limestone peak formation a mile south of Boyden Cave on Highway 180 on the south fork of the Kings River. In October Herb Laeger, Eddie Joe and I climbed the dramatic 1500-foot northeast arete f...
Canadian St. Elias Expedition. On July 10 Alice Culbert, Jack Bryceland, Jim Craig, Fred Douglas, Steve Heim, Dietmar Setzer, my wife Margriet Wyborn and I flew from Seattle to Yakutat. On the same day we were flown into Oily Lake which is trapped...
Rosario Norte, Sarapo Oeste, Ancocancha Este and Other Peaks. On July 20 Peter Leeming, Cedric Marsh, William Patterson and I packed our gear onto four burros and set off on our two-day walk from Cajatambo to Base Camp at 4300 meters on the southw...
In August 2011 Wesley Ashwood, Kelsey Sheely, and I put up a new line on the northeast face of the Guardian (13,617') in the East Grenadier Range of the southern San Juan Mountains. My two previous attempts on the face had been thwarted by weather...
An Approach to Habel Creek and Mt. Alberta from the Sunwapta Valley. August, 1938. E. R. Gibson, B. Gilman, H. S. Hall, Jr. From the Jasper-Lake Louise road between mileposts 57 and 58 (5200 ft. ; directly E. of Mt. Woolley, and where letter S of ...
Na Vrh Sveta, by Aleš Kunaver, Ante Mahkota, Jože Andlovic, Matija Maležic, Danilo Cedilnik and Tone Skarja. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1979. Published in both Slovene and Croatian. 254 pages with 184 photographs in color, 124 in black-and-white...