Khatang Attempt. Australians, John Lamb and Ray Vran, reached a high point of 6100 meters on Khatang (6782 meters, 22,250 feet) in the Rolwaling Himal on December 27. They were hoping to climb a new route, the northwest face. They abandoned the cl...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall. In early May, Dusan Jagersky and I climbed about half way up the central rib on Mount Rainier’s Willis Wall when a large avalanche came within 100 yards of us and swept the entire right side of the wall. This, combined ...
There appears to be a renaissance of interest in the Himalaya. Last summer a German expedition from Munich attempted Kan- chenjunga and was only prevented from reaching the top by the onset of bad weather, when they had overcome the greatest diffi...
Satopanth. The Klub Wysokogórski Rzeszów organized an expedition to the Gangotri region led by Jerzy Wala. They climbed Satopanth by the normal north ridge. Above Advance Base at 5100 meters, they established Camps I and II at 5800 and 6300 meters...
Wyoming, Wind Rivers—Koven—On 20 July, Bob and Gail Bates, Fred Truslow and John Oberlin (43) were about 125 feet below the summit of Koven during the ascent, where they were forced to stop on a comfortable ledge when the blue sky was suddenly obs...
Pioniere der Alpen, by Carl Egger. 371 pages, with 24 portrait drawings. Zürich: Verlag Amstutz, Herdeg & Co., 1946.Here are presented 30 biographies of notable Swiss guides from Melchior Anderegg to Franz Lochmatter, forming an outline of mou...
Frank Smythe: The Six Alpine/Himalayan Climbing Books (Climbs and Ski Runs; The Kangchenjunga Adventure; Kamet Conquered; Camp Six; The Valley of Flowers; Mountaineering Holiday). Frank Smythe. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books; London: Bâton Wicks,...
Yankee Rock and Ice. Laura and Guy Waterman. Stackpole Books, Harrisburg,PA, 1992. 354 pages, 125 black-and-white illustrations. $24.95 (paper).You needn’t be a Yankee to relish this companion to the Waterman’s rich, Forest and Crag. You don’t eve...
SLIP ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOATWashington, Monte Cristo PeakThe climb began at 5:20 a.m. on August 22 from the Glacier Basin trailhead above the Monte Cristo resort area. I led the party at a moderate pace to the basin. All party members except for G...
AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, King RavineKing Ravine is a large glacial cirque located in the Northern Presidential Range. It features several prominent avalanche paths and starting zones. There are no avalanche forecasts issued for th...
One Hundred Years of Crossings of Greenland’s Inland Ice*Gunnar Jensen, Arctic Expeditions Adviser, DenmarkMORE THAN ONE HUNDRED YEARS ago, in the autumn of 1888, the ice-covered interior highlands of Greenland were explored by the Norwegian polar...
Unsupported crossing of the Western Kun Lun and attempt on Pt. 6,903m. In September a Russian team jointly led by Boris Malakhov and me, with Michael Bertov, Paul Demeshchik, and Sergey Zajko, made a northeast-to-southwest crossing of the Western ...
FREDERIC KING BUTTERS1878 - 1945Professor Butters was born at Minneapolis, Minn., on February 8, 1878, and died there August 1, 1945. He was unmarried. The family name was originally Butter, his ancestors coming from Scotland and settling in Wobur...
STRANDED – WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, HYPOTHERMIACalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeEnglish climbers Justin (28) and Luke (about 25) arrived in the Valley in May, intent on climbing the regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (24 pitches, VI 5....
AVALANCHE, HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mount SheerOn Saturday, November 27, 1982, six youths and their adult leader were climbing Mount Sheer on showshoes. A total of 40 centimeters of snow had fallen during the previo...
NecrologyJames K. Angell, Jr.Bob HardyP. Jim RatzJohn William AugensteinMorgan HarrisKenneth L. RinehartMads AulumScott David HyslopChristine SeashorePatrick ClarkRobert F. KampsPhilip E. SharpeHenry E. Everding, IIIVera KomarkovaJohnny Soderstrom...
In the second half of August, Ryan Hokanson and I enjoyed a great trip to the remote Arrigetch Peaks in Gates of the Arctic National Park. After flying for an hour from Fairbanks to Betties, then another hour to Circle Lake, we walked for two da...
ROBERT MANLY ORMES1904-1994The name Ormes conjures up to Colorado adventurers of the past several decades immediate images of a vast array of mountain terrain. The Ormes Guide to the Colorado Mountains was initially printed in 1952 and now is in t...
Sadao Tambe 1916–2007Sadao Tambe, born in Kyoto, Japan, learned climbing as a member of the famous Keio University Alpine Club. After earning his degree in economics in 1939, Sadao started his career in management with Nippon Yusen Kaisha, one of ...
Colorado Mountain Club. One hundred and eleven hiking and climbing trips were participated in by over 2000 persons from the Denver Group during the spring, summer, and fall months. One of these trips in August was a joint one with the Forest Servi...