Bhrigupanth. Bhrigupanth (6772 meters, 22,220 feet) was climbed by an Indian team from Pune via the south face, the route of the first ascent in 1980 by the American women’s team led by Arlene Blum, though it was different above Camp III, where we...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. Summer never really did visit the Vancouver area in 1973, and the BCMC schedule of 110 trips, including three camps, suffered accordingly. Nevertheless, the outings were popular, and good use was made of what ...
Sita Chuchura. Our expedition, composed of Guy Hiron, Guy Mattioni, Jean-Louis Guillet, Claude Hameau, Philippe Lataud, Ang Tarke Sherpa and me as leader, made the second ascent of Sita Chuchura (6611 meters, 21,690 feet). After a ten-day approach...
RAPPEL FAILURE AND FALL/SLIP ON ROCK—Wyoming, The Tetons, Mt. Moran. Gerald Huntley (32) and Susan Huntley (29) were descending by rappel the East Ridge of the West Horn of Mt. Moran on the afternoon ofAugust 25. At a point several hundred feet ab...
Sierra Nevada: (1) Yosemite Valley. On 31 May 1947 Donald Boyd, a 14-year-old boy, was killed by a fall from Sunnyside Bench beneath upper Yosemite Falls. Another boy of the same age was with him. It was evening and getting dark. They had taken a ...
To Be Brave, My Life, Volume 1. Royal Robbins. Pink Moment Press, 2009. 221 pages. Paperback. $19.95.Royal Robbins was the outstanding climber of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing. More important, he was the most influential. He was probably the...
ALTITUDE SICKNESS, PNEUMONIAYukon Territory, Mt. Logan, King Trench RouteAt 8 a.m. on May 16, 1980, Kluane Park headquarters received word that Elizabeth Strasser was suffering from a combination of altitude sickness and severe cold at the 17,500-...
Of General InterestArticles in The Geographical Journal. Several interesting articles have appeared recently in The Geographical Journal (London).“Search for Power in the British Columbia Coast Range,” by R. C. Farrow, Chief Hydraulic Engineer of ...
Mountaineering in Greenland 1977–1986Dolfi Rotovnik and Peter Søndergaard, Dansk BjergklubTHE WORLD’S LARGEST ISLAND, Greenland, fascinates mountaineers throughout the continents. It is a vast country covered by ice and snow and with mountains as ...
AAC, Oregon Section. Our winter Section expedition was made to Smith Rock to construct an emergency rescue litter shelter. Jeff Alzner, Richard Bence, Bob McGown, Bob Spike, and others participated. The Section has plans for other litter shelters ...
Austin and Laoiju Stringham have opened a sandstone trad climbing area in northwest Yunnan Province. Accessed through the town of Liming (2,100m), two and a half hours drive west of the major city Lijiang, the sandstone walls lie within Loaj...
Mt. Bradley, South Face. In July, Blair Williams and Michael Schaefer climbed a new route (5.10 A3) on the south face of Mt. Bradley. The route takes a line to the right of The Gift (Carpenter-House-Twight, 1998) and left of The Pearl (Orgler et a...
FALL ON ROCK, FALL INTO MOAT, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, Grand Teton, Mount TeewinotOn August 22, Larry L. Fahlberg (44) died while attempting a solo climb of the East Face Route on Mount Teewinot in Grand Teton National Park. Fahlberg was climbing al...
Taking advantage of weather patterns allegedly caused by El Niño, and assurances by Park Ranger Darryl Miller that the winter in the Alaska Range had been “extremely mild,” Jon "Jonny Blitz" Carpenter, Steve House and I flew onto the Ruth Glacier ...
Admiral Peak, Ak Su Valley, Pamir Alai, Kirghizstan. Jerry Hadwin, Clive Davis, Andy Lewington and I flew on July 18 on a new direct seven-hour flight from London to Tashkent, where we were met by our Russian hosts from the Moscow Engineering Phys...
High Peaks in the AntarcticIn a previous note* we questioned the existence of 15,000-ft. peaks in the Antarctic. Perusal of recently issued reports contained in Proceedings of the American Philosophical Society, Philadelphia, 1940 (Vol. 82, No. 5)...
Mount Kennedy, East Ridge. On June 19, Coloradan Kathy Nilson, and Canadians Allan Derbyshire, Ron Quaife and I were landed on the South Lowell Glacier at 6800 feet by Andy Williams in a Helio Courier. We intended to climb the South Lowell Glacier...
El Capitan, Quo Vadis. During the night of November 20-21 Jacek Czyz, solo, finished Quo Vadis (VI 5.9 A4/A4+), a new route near the Muir Wall and the Dorn Direct, with which it shares a couple of pitches, and left of the Nose. Of the 22 pitches, ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Lundin PeakOn October 11, 1980, Jerry Pruitt (33) assistant leader on a club climb sponsored by The Mountaineers, fell about 600 feet to his death after he slipped while descending Lundin Peak. The followi...
Ata Glacier, reconnaissance. The Alpine Club of Kobe University (ACKU) has been pursuing unexplored mountains for the past several decades. Our new target is the Kangri Garpo Mountains. More than thirty 6,000m peaks in this range remain unclimbed....