An Early Report on Patagonian Climbing in the Southern Summer of 1974-5. The expedition to Cerro Moyano did not succeed despite exceptionally good weather for Patagonia. Jure Skvarca and Mario Serrano could not overcome the technical difficulties,...
Colorado Mountain Club. Seventy-six people attended the annual two-week outing, July 17-30, in the Needle Mountains of southwestern Colorado. Fourteen peaks were climbed including Eolus, Windom, and Sunlight, the area’s three 14,000-foot summits; ...
Prusik Peak, First Winter Ascent. Dave Anderson, Cal Folsom, Tom Linder and I made the first winter ascent of this peak via the west ridge in January, 1975.James McCarthy
Mystery, Beauty, and Danger: The Literature of the Mountains and Mountain Climbing Published in English before 1946. Robert Hicks Bates, Ph.D. Portsmouth, New Hampshire: Peter Randall, 2000. 228 pages, numerous historic photographs. $40.As an amat...
FALL ON ROCK - POOR COMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, The BastilleOn July 9, Darrell Kangiser (25) lead the first pitch of The Bastille Crack (5.8). When he arrived at the anchor (~35 feet above the ground), his belayer (23) thoug...
P 6666 Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Akira Takita was unable to get higher than 5200 meters on the northwest ridge of P 6666 (21,871 feet) because of bad weather. The unclimbed peak lies northeast of the Haramosh La.
Attempt on Peak above the Biafo. Delay in getting flown to Skardu prevented Doug Scott, Clive Rolands, Robert Wood and Ronnie Richards from having enough time in Baltistan to accomplish their objective. Instead the expedition turned into a reconna...
Lago Argentino and the Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap. During January and February a strong Centro Andino Buenos Aires Expedition operated in this zone. Because of the failure of boat transportation on Lage Argentino, the group was diverte...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (5)—On August 24, 1956 Sara Sussman (24), A. M. McDermott (30), Ed Ormitz (27), Jewel Mikle (30) and Jay LeBrun (28) were descending from a climb on the Grand Teton and had just gone down the head wall below the ...
South Greenland. An Austro-German expedition was led by Toni Diirnberger and consisted of Ernst Lainer, Manfred Zühlke and Hans- Georg Voitl. Operating in the country above Danells and Patursok Fjords, they climbed on June 28 what was probably the...
Ganesh VII, attempt and tragedy. No one knows how far four Frenchmen got on Ganesh VII (6,550m), a peak on the Tibetan border that is not on any permitted list. They had taken an inexpensive permit for the trekking peak Paldor (5,903m), but contin...
Gyagar, Southwest Ridge. An expedition of the Dogra Regiment, Indian Army, led by Lt Col. Haripal Singh Dhillon, climbed to the summit of Gyagar (6400 meters) on August 28 via the Southwest Ridge. Summitters were Hav. Lalit Negi, Subedar Devi Sing...
New Climbs in The Needles. A party of four, Jim Parolini, Hilton Keith, Joel Merkel, and I, climbed in this area during the past season. “The Arrowhead” was ascended from Martin Peak in a short but exposed class 5 climb. The first ascent of “Snift...
Giovanni Segantini, by Hans Zbinden. Schweizer Heimatbiicher 43/44. 60 pages, with ten plates in color and 31 in monotone. Bern: Verlag Paul Haupt, 1951. Price, $2.25.Although the artist Segantini is forever associated with the Engadine, he was Au...
Little Mac Spire, Southwest Arête. On our third day in the Southern Pickets, Art Huffman and I were looking for a route that did not involve scrambling up some rotten gully to get to solid rock. On August 15, after a two-hour approach from a camp ...
Central Chile. In March 1963 four University of Chile students led by C. Marangunic climbed in the group between the Christ the Redeemer and the Gemelos from a base in the Navarro valley and ascended as firsts: Navarro (14,961 feet), Zoológico (15...
Cerro Palpana. Palpana (6045 meters, 19,833 feet) is located 36 miles northwest of Ascotán railroad station, in Antofagasta province. J. Ambrús and C. Sepúlveda, from Calama, in October 13 made the first ascent of this peak. Two days later, a larg...
Minya Konka Range, Edgar (6,618m), east face, The Rose of No-Man's Land. The previously untouched east face and upper south ridge of Edgar rises 2,500m and features an objectively threatened approach couloir. The smaller southeast face to the left...
Mount McKinley. Aside from the ascents mentioned elsewhere in this journal, Mount McKinley was climbed by three parties, all of which used the West Buttress route. On May 11 John Graham, leader, U. S. National Park Ranger Richard Stenmark and the ...
Hut Tower, Southeast Face, Boy’s World. From June 12-13, Bob Semborski and I climbed a new route on Hut Tower in 30 hours round-trip from base camp. To the best of our knowledge, this is the fourth line on the formation and has the same approach a...