In July, we spent a month in Peru with our climbing partners Pedro Galán and Manu Ponce, along with Luis Rizo and Lina Schütze as cameraman. Visiting both the Amazon and the Cordillera Blanca, we came away from Peru very happy with our three compl...
On a 23-day expedition during the austral winter of 2017, Natalia Martínez and I accessed and explored the remote Cordón Aysén in Chilean Patagonia. The Cordón Aysén is a 30 km mountain range on the western edge of the Northern Patagonian Ice Fiel...
From late December 2016 through early February 2017, Josie McKee and I spent just over four weeks exploring and climbing in northern Patagonia’s Río Alerce Valley. This region is about 20–30 kilometers southwest of Chaitén, Chile, and east of Parq...
In March, Jon Griffin, Tad McCrea, and I traveled to the remote western side of the Cordillera de Sarmiento and spent two weeks exploring the area. Previously, the majority of the few climbing expeditions to this range have accessed the peaks from...
This expedition (www.arrampicande.it) was the initiative of Pietro Rago (Italy), who first visited the Quebrada Rurec in 2005 and wanted to establish new routes with two professional athletes with disabilities: Silvia Parente, a skier who is blind...
In August, Peruvian IFMGA guide Marco Jurado, along with Frank Huamán and Misael Mendoza (both Peru), traveled to Reserva Paisajística Nor Yauyos Cocha, east of Lima. After traveling through Huancayo, they made camp at 5,070m at a small lake under...
In July, Peruvian IFMGA guide Victor Rímac traveled with Greg Meyering and Susie Young (both USA) to Reserva Paisajística Nor Yauyos Cocha, located in Peru’s Cordillera Central, east of Lima.On July 10, after traveling through the Junín region of ...
After spending three weeks in the Cordillera Blanca in July, Argentineans Nehuen Conterno and Pablo Maximiliano Laumann visited the Cordillera Central near Lima. The pair had many objectives in mind in this little explored and documented region. O...
After more than 20 seasons in the Bugaboos, I wasn’t quite sure how much energy I had to devote to my beloved backyard spires. Injuries held me back in 2017 from climbing anywhere near my limit, which in turn pulled in the reins on my enthusiasm. ...
Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov from Russia climbed a new route up the northwest face of the south tower of Mt. Asgard in August. Their route ascends a prominent pillar on the left side of the face, well to the left of Sensory Overload (2012, ...
A general trend of unsettled and wet weather plagued the summer months in New Zealand and limited the amount of activity in the alpine. The most notable ascents were repeats: the second ascent of Maid Marian (1,000m, 22/5.11c A2, Dare-Joll, 2013),...
In August a team of Japanese college students, Gakushi Eguchi, Satoru Miyachi, Yuu Nishida, and Ryota Takanezawa, drove from Leh over the Shingo La to Darcha, and then trekked into the Lenak Valley via the village of Thangso. They planned to climb...
Ondra Macek and I attempted a new route on the right side of the 1,300m west face of Grosvenor (a.k.a. Riwuqie Feng, 6,376m). We left our advanced base below the wall on September 27 and climbed eight pitches up to AI4/5 (80–90°), reaching an alti...
From the beginning, Jonathan Cooper, Japhy Dhungana, and I had the mindset of an exploratory expedition, seeking out previously unclimbed walls between the major Himalayan peaks. In November, we found many potential lines in the Barun Valley, whic...
Jan Kobald, Markus Kollmann, Philipp Prünster, and I (all South Tyroleans, age 23–25) couldn’t wait for our Christmas holidays. Markus and I knew the country of Oman a bit from an earlier climbing journey in 2012–’13. Ever since, we knew we would...
One part of the limestone Hajar mountains lies within the United Arab Emirates. In 2009 I was living in the UAE, and while walking in Wadi Naqab I came across an impressive crag. Red Wall, as it became known, appeared to have been formed by a mass...
For the past year we had been planning a trip into the Revelations, for which we had won a McNeil-Nott Award. But after waiting almost a week to fly in, with low clouds sitting over some key passes, our pilot suggested an alternative destination: ...
Never have I sandbagged my friends or myself so incredibly hard. The whole adventure started when I convinced my poor unsuspecting victims, Reese Doyle and Robin Miller, to take a lovely flight out to my friend Matt Bertke’s lodge at stunning Chel...
There are a number of attractive unclimbed faces in the Himalaya that have not even been attempted because the approach is considered too difficult or dangerous. On paper, our concept was simple: We would use paragliders to catch thermals and fly ...
In late 2017, with the mountain guide Gabriel Fava and porter Joaquin Gomez (both from Argentina), I traveled to the central-eastern part of the little-visited Northern Patagonian Icefield, approximately 20km north of Cerro Arenales. We were famil...