Condoriri, West Ridge of West Peak. On June 14 Roger and Elspeth Whewell, John Hudson and I climbed the west ridge of the west peak of Condoriri in four hours on excellent ice. The west peak has two summits, both the western summit and the ridge w...

Torre de la Media Luna. This tower rises between El Mocho and Cerro Torre. It was first climbed on February 4 by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley in seven pitches (5.10c, Al).Silvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino Italiano

Emperor Face, historical note. Nearly forgotten, in 1974 Pat Callis and Jim Kanzler made the first significant attempt at the then-unclimbed Emperor Face, climbing high on the face through a feature they called the “Jaws.” Callis recalls their att...

FALL OFF TRAIL/ROCKMaine, Baxter State ParkOn May 25, 1985, Dennis Crouse (38) and a Post 507 Explorer Scouts group had hiked up the Melon Taylor Trail to Pannola and then proceeded to Chimney Peak. While coming off the southwest side of the peak,...

Ils ont conquis l’Himalaya by Bernard Pierre. Paris: Pion, 1979. 243 pages, 61 photographs, half of them in color.Bernard Pierre knows the high mountains of the world, having among other things led the successful expedition to Nun in 1953 and havi...

Tirich Mir West I. Our expedition was made up of Salvador Boix, Joan Hugas, Pere Planas, Josep Aliu and me as leader. After a four-day approach from Lunku, we placed Base Camp on July 18 at 15,425 feet on the moraine on the right bank of the Upper...

Spanish Expedition to Schweizerland, East Greenland. The seven members of the Valencian Arctic Expedition, Dr. Vicente Manglano Baldovi, Enrique Torres Ochoa, Héctor Verdu Pastor, Baldomero Brugarolas Munuera, Amadeo Botella Sanjaime, Angel Tebar ...

Climbs in Wrangell-St. Elias and Glacier Bay National Parks and Preserves. A number of expeditions reached the mountains in these parks from Yakutat. The south ridge of Mount Augusta is covered in a full article. Ken Brown and Alan Camplejohn made...

After hiking to an advanced camp (4,900m) in the Ishinca Valley on October 16, Beto Pinto and Eric Albino began climbing the south face of Urus Central (5,495m). The initial 360m had loose snow and mixed climbing, to 80°, along with falling blo...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED,INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Arizona, SedonaOn October 6, 1987, Brian Green (19) was climbing a 5.7 route on the Courthouse Rock Fountain, and while attempting a final chimney near the top, he ...

Kangtega, Women’s Ascent. Our expedition climbed Kangtega largely by the same route after Camp I as the New Zealanders, who made the first ascent in 1963. We established Base Camp on April 24 at 4700 meters at the foot of the Kangtega Glacier. Bec...

Huandoy Sur, 11-second descent. In 1997 Frenchmen Jérôme Blanc-Gras and Yannick Graziani made the second ascent of the French Route (800m, 5+ A2+[New Wave], Desmaison-Faivre- Ottmann-Salomon, 1976) on the overhanging, shaded south face of Huandoy ...

Moose’s Tooth. In May Tim Auger, Mike Farrell, Ron Gilligan and I attempted the Moose’s Tooth via the Ruth Glacier-south col route. Although this route has been attempted many times, the Moose’s Tooth had still only one ascent—via the west ridge b...

Fairweather Ascent and Lituya and Crillon Attempts. On May 21, Scot Alex McPherson and Brazilian Adriano Petrachi completed the ascent of Fairweather by the Carpé route. Also members of the party were Alaskan John Thompson and Canadian Keith Carte...

FALLING ROCK, SUP ON SNOW, POOR POSITION, CLIMBING ALONE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BullerOn April 18, 1989, about 1030, Steven W. set out from Calgary to hike and climb in the Robertson Glacier area. That evening, his father reported that he...

The Salmon Alps of Northern California. A very rugged, although not a very lofty range of mountains are the Salmon Alps of northern California. Situated on the headwaters of tributaries of the Trinity River, they rise in sharp peaks and jagged arê...

Trisul Attempt from the West. Our members were Santiago Alvarez, Juan José Iglesias, Baldomero Rodríguez and I. Until the end of August when we arrived at Base Camp it rained a great deal. We approached up the Nandakini valley in five days from Gh...

Agram Valley, Wakhan. S. du Chaffaud, A. Martin, Y. Richard and I, French, and B. Lawder, American, explored in the summer of 1971 the Agram valley, south of Zebek, at the beginning of the Wakhan. The whole massif around the Agram valley was unkno...

Simian Outing Society. During the winter Diana Knaak and Pete Zvengrowski made the first known ski ascent of Mount Eisenhower in the Canadian Rockies, and Pete Zvengrowski, Skip King, and Walter Techabold made the first winter ascent of Victoria f...

Everest, West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Miss Ursula Huber, Richi Ott, Werner Steiniger, Thomas Pfenniger, Robert Bosch and me as leader. We set up Base Camp at 5300 meters on March 28. From March 30 to April 11, we fixed rope t...