Owl Rock. Across the highway from Agathalan rises the red obelisk called Owl Rock. Harvey Carter and I studied a route that had already been attempted but the rock seemed sounder on the opposite, west side. We took the better part of two days, cli...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. A six-man Korean expedition led by Choi Byung- Soo attempted to climb the north face of Thalay Sagar in June. They were stopped at 6400 meters by bad weather.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
Piramide, Facig Uno. Dujan Debelak (Slovenia) and Aritza Monasteno (Spain) climbed what they believed to be a new route on the southwest face of Piramide (5885 meters) in 11 hours on July 13. They followed the gully on the left side of the wall, t...
FALL ON ICY ROCK, WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn July 14, 1992, at 0430, three Exum guides left the lower saddle with seven clients to climb the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton. The route was in bad condition because of rec...
Ama Dablam, state of the Dablam. The huge high serac known as “the Dablam” has remained active since November 2006, when a huge mass of ice falling from this large serac barrier hit Camp 3 and swept six climbers off the mountain. During the night ...
Chiquito Dome, “Cheeseburger in Paradise”. On May 11, Conrad Van Bruggen and I climbed this route on the east face of this small dome located near the Mammoth Pool Reservoir. Start in the last right-facing book before the dome turns to brushy slab...
The Ship’s Prow, Bologna Pony. It was reported that Jim Redo and Pat Adams put up a new 500-foot line on The Ship’s Prow that follows the obvious overhanging arête on the formation. The Bologna Pony (5.12b/c) features thin crack climbing on the fi...
Mount Vernon Bailey, Southeast Face, Big Bend National Park. In March, Fred Pfahler and I began our ascent at the main couloir on the east part of the face. Three rope-lengths of moderate difficulty brought us to the upper of two diagonal ledges w...
Stauning Alper. We traveled from Mestersvig along Kong Oscar Fjord and Alpejord by rubber boat past the common front of the Gully and Sefström Glaciers to enter the Dammen, where we placed Base Camp. High Camp was at 3450 feet up the Sefström Glac...
The Titan, Sun Devil Chimney, First Clean Ascent. On March 20-21, Andy Donson and I made the first clean ascent of the Sun Devil Chimney (5.9 A3) on the Titan. We used tricams, small Aliens and hand-placed pins in existing scars and gave the route...
Shishapatigma main summit (8,027m), southwest face, solo in December with new variation. Over the years I had a simple idea in mind: to climb a big Himalayan route solo in the inhospitable conditions that typify winter in the Himalaya. During all ...
Mount Everest Massif. Jan Kielkowski. Explo Publishers, 1 Maja 40/6, 44-100 Gliwice, Poland. 1992. Climbing Guide, 201 pages, 9 maps, 97 illustrations, $18.50. Mountaineering Atlas, 21 pages, maps and indexes, $6.50 plus $2.50 postage for each.If ...
Gunsight (main summit), East Face. Gary Brill and I made this ascent on July 31. From a camp on the Blizzard-Gunsight Col we were able to circumnavigate easily to the east by way of the Blue Glacier. Choosing a line on the east face (left), we soo...
Climbs in Pinnacles National Monument. At least three routes were added to the monument this year. Cleaver Buttress (F6) lies on a formation above and behind the Machete Ridge. It ascends a water chute to the base of a chimney. The second pitch as...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT California, Yosemite ValleyOn May 22, James Waugh (27) and John Darsis (30) were on El Capitan climbing The Nose and were two pitches short of the Dolt Tower. Waugh fell, injuring his finger. They...
Pier Giorgio, Patagonia. A group from Buenos Aires, consisting of Eduardo and Jenny Monelos, Peter and Jure Skvarca, Mario Castelazzo, Carlos Porta and Serif Pasic, finally managed to climb often attempted Pier Giorgio (8515 feet). They approached...
Daff Dome, South Face, the Crescent Arch. This new climb was done June 2 by Layton Kor and me. The route follows a great right-curving arch in mid-face, very prominent from the nearby Tioga Road. The first two leads were primarily difficult fifth ...
SLIP ON ICE, NO BELAY, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn March 29, 1981, a large group from a University Outdoor Pursuits Program were climbing Professor Falls, a waterfall on the lower slopes of Mount Rundle near Banff. The rou...
Volcán Llullaillaco, New Route. Llullaillaco, a volcano on the Argentine-Chilean border, was a sacred peak for the Incas who built on its summit the world’s highest buildings. In March, a caving expedition went to Volcán Llullaillaco; Gustavo Lisi...
The Alps, by Wilfrid Noyce, with descriptive essays by Karl Lukan, translated from the German edition of 1959 by Margaret Shenfield. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1963. 4 to, 312 pages, 222 photographs and 6 maps. Price $15.00.Although heavy and ...