American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

26088 Records

Title Publication Year
Essentials: Shock
SHOCK  IS DEFINED as inadequate delivery of oxygenated blood (perfusion) to the tissues and organs of the body. ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2017
Fatality on Crestone Needle
An experienced 55-year-old mountaineer died in a 100-foot fall from 14,197-foot Crestone Needle in the Sangre de Cristos on July 9 . ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Shawangunks Annual Summary
In 2016 at the Mohonk Preserve there were 21 climbing-related incidents, including both injury and illness . Sixteen accidents required technical rescues. Seven ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fatal Tie-in Error in Maple Canyon
On July 23, an experienced climber died after falling to the ground from the anchor of a sport climb . We did ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Remote 911 Calls
Even if your cell phone is showing no bars, it’s always worth attempting a 911 emergency call in remote areas. ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2017
What To Do About Knocked-Out Teeth
If a tooth gets knocked out of position or completely knocked out of one's mouth: Do not scrub, disinfect, or ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2017
Umiguqjuaq Wall, Marooned at Midnight
The two of us had been dreaming of an expedition to Baffin Island’s big walls ever since we started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Many First Ascents Near Barbeau Peak
Brian Friedrich traversing the previously unclimbed east ridge of Griper (2,417m). Photo by Eric Gilbertson BARBEAU PEAK (2,616m) is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Peak 9,331’, Northeast Face, and New Routes on Mt. Grenville and Galleon Peak
I FIRST LAID EYES upon the beautiful northeast face of Peak 9,331’ while walking across the Homathko Icefield in the early ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Minotaur Tower, Suburban Blondes, First Free Ascent
SUBURBAN BLONDES (IV 5.9 C2+) is a relatively obscure aid route up the 850-foot Minotaur Tower, which rises along the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Beckey and the AAJ
NO CLIMBER in the 88-year history of the AAJ has written more reports or had more climbs cited in these ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2016
Rucho, East Face and South Ridge
IN EARLY 2010, the government of India opened 104 peaks in the Zanskar region. One of these was unnamed “Peak 6,000m,” ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Machu, Southwest Ridge, Attempt
In June, Aiden Laffey and I attempted Machu (6,630m, 36.234967°N, 75.051874°E) in the Hispar Valley . As far as I could ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Blåtinden, Nightwatch Pillar
In September I sat in my house in Uløya through amazingly stable weather . Finally, I couldn't bear the pressure ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Shivling, Northeast and North Faces, Partial New Route
ONCE AGAIN Simon Gietl and I were at the gas station in Toblacher Kreuzung, having a quick coffee before climbing . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Central and Western At Bashi: Pik Rhianydd and Other Ascents
Kyrgyzstan is rich in little-explored mountains. One example is the At Bashi, a beautiful range of snowy summits and technical ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Tha Nagphu, North Ridge; Sharphu I, Attempt
Sharphu is a collection of peaks on a north-south ridge to the west of Kambachen, forming the watershed between the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Unaweep Wall, Wintertime Joy
On a rainy April day, Curtis Chabot and I carried 1,000’ of static line and a double set of cams up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Tabsar Southwest Top, Northeast Ridge
Tabsar (Tobsar) was brought onto the permitted list in 2002 . On the HGM-Finn map it is clearly marked as Tabsar (6,065m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Sue's Spire, West-Southwest Face; Boughfell, Southwest Face
During April, Jesse Dufton, Alastair Everett, Oliver Mentz, Jennifer Roberts, and Molly Thompson (expedition leader) completed a self-supported expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Bugaboo Spire, North Face, Tutti-Frutti Summer Love
In early August, Tom Schindfessel (Belgium) and Vlad Capusan (Romania) established a long new route on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Halgurd, First Ski Descent
In late February, in partnership with Dutch guide Jan Bakker, I led a small team of American skiers on what ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kichik-Alai (Little Alai), Gezart Valley: Korly-too, North Ridge; Pik Kamar (a.k.a. Djumas), Southeast Slopes and Upper East Ridge
In August we visited the Gezart Valley, establishing base camp at 3,550m, not far from the start of the Gezart ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Saltoro Range, Attempts in the Kondus Valley; Deosai Mountains, Peak Nic, Good, No Good
After months of waiting—and in the end only four weeks before we were due to leave Italy—...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Khalkhal West, Southwest Ridge; Praqpa Ri, Southeast Top, East-Southeast Ridge
(A) Khalkhal West, (B) Praqpa Ri southeast top, and (C) Praqpa Ri (Central), seen from the east across the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Sumur Glacier, Various Ascents
UNTIL RECENTLY, there has been little exploration by foreign mountaineers of the more remote areas of the East Karakoram . The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Heart Mountain, Heart Line
HEART MOUNTAIN is a very popular scrambling peak along the Bow Valley, just an hour’s drive from Calgary. I’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Laylak Valley, Peak 4,800m, Northwest Pillar, Alexandra Supernova
FOR MANY YEARS I had dreamed of going to Kyrgyzstan to climb perfect granite walls above green meadows filled with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Himlung East, West Ridge; East-West Traverse of Himlung Himal
  I live right below La Meije in the Ecrins Massif of France, and it is a pleasure to be ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Purkung, North Face; Belgian Peak, West Ridge; New Traverse from the Teri La to Muktinath
The primary aim of our trip was to climb summits of the Teri Himal, a small subrange northeast of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Thunder Mountain, West Face to North Face
At 2,773m (9,097’), Thunder Mountain (Mt. Nirvana) is the tallest peak in the Northwest Territories. Prior to 2017, it had received five ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Valhalla Ranges Update
OVER THE PAST few years, Valhalla Provincial Park—a once-sleepy alpine climbing destination about 100km southwest of the Bugaboos, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Maidon Sar (a.k.a. Darmyani Peak), East Ridge from the South
Looking northwest across the Pasu Glacier to (A) Pasu Sar East (6,842m), (B) Noukarsich (6,498m), (C) Maidon Sar (6,085m, Spanish, 1985), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Goat Wall, Fluffy Goat Butt-Face
ABOUT 20KM EAST of Canmore is one of the most impressive rock features in the Bow Valley: the Goat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Visions
CLIMBING HAS BEEN the hub of my life, with spokes of interest radiating in all directions, like a magnetic field . ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2017
Tumbling Boulder Injures Belayer
On October 11, four climbers and I were cragging in Day Canyon . After warming up on a nearby climb, my partner ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Sauyr Zhotasy East, First Known Ascent
THE GOAL OF MAKING the first documented ascent of Sauyr Zhotasy (a.k.a. Muztau), a remote 3,840m peak on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Siulá Grande, East Face, Attempts
IN LATE JULY, Tito Arosio, Matteo Bernasconi, and I traveled to the Cordillera Huayhuash with high hopes of climbing the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Two Solo New Routes on the Ship’s Prow
THE VISION for an expedition to Baffin Island had crystalized in April 2016, during a solitary walk near the base of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Ground Fall – Inadequate Protection
PAUL AND I had been climbing at Red Rock for about a week. On February 7, after a windy rest day, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Mt. Hunter, North Buttress, Solo Ascent and Speed Record
In May 2012, I attempted to solo Begguya (a.k.a. Mt. Hunter, 14,573’) via the North Buttress, and in a state ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Bear Tooth, Beastiality; Shark Tooth, Shark Fishing
In early May, Greg Boswell, Lindsay Yule, Paul Prentice, and I flew to the lower Buckskin Glacier with food for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Charquini, East Face, Juntos al Puma
On March 12, I circumnavigated Charquini (5,392m) on skis and spotted interesting steep granite on the “hidden” east face . While this ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Hampaturi Group, Serkhe Valley, Three Peaks Traverse
On March 19, after a small incident in which we had to extract the car from some mud, my wife dropped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Huallomen, Southwest Face, Via del Querubín
On the first day of May, Pacifico Machaca (Bolivia) and I climbed a partial new route on the impressive southwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Agpad Island, Europa Wall; Akuliaruseq Island, Anchor Wall
BETWEEN JUNE 28 and August 6, Wojtek Malawski, Konrad Ociepka, and I visited the Uummannaq and Upernavik regions aboard the yacht ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Chugimago (a.k.a. Chukyima Go), West-Southwest Ridge
Mike Arnold (USA), my client Tim Wheeler (U.K.), and I arrived at Lukla on October 5. We acclimatized in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
First Ascents of Sunkala Topi, Lek Fett, and Pratibandhit Lek
SUPPORTED BY the German Alpine Club, Nils Beste, Bernde Emmerich, Franz Friebel, Harry Kirschenhofer, and I flew to Jumla in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Chulu West, West Ridge, Attempt
In October, Germans André Günzel, Manuel Möller, and Jürgen Schütz attempted the unclimbed west ridge of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Cuchillo Khuno, Probable New Routes on Southwest and East Faces
In June I guided Michael Ellis (USA) on the direct routes up Pirámide Blanca and Condoriri . At the same ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018