American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

26035 Records

Title Publication Year
Two Climbs Alone
OVER THE PAST couple of years, I’ve done a handful of ascents that various climbing luminaries have described as “...
AAJ
Feature Article
2017
Mystical Realm
HALFWAY UP the ten-pitch headwall, at yet another hanging belay, Tony looked at me with a grin. “Normally I climb ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2017
Metrophobia
ONCE PLANTED in my head, Silvan’s project grew relentlessly in my thoughts, from a seed to a blossoming tree, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2017
The Golden Age
TIME STANDS STILL as the warm rays of the setting sun illuminate the surrounding ridgelines. As the lush meadows ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2017
El Valor del Miedo
THE IDEA of attempting Cerro Murallón came to us way back in 2010, even before my first trip to Patagonia. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2017
Rolwaling Kang, South Face
In October-November 2015, we organized our first “Himalayan Camp,” with the aim of helping Japanese newcomers to the Himalaya climb safely ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Pumori, South Face, Attempted New Route
Our expedition was an adventure from beginning to end. Our proposed route on Pumori (7,148m) followed a direct line up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper Knots
At 7:15 p.m. on July 15, a 22-year-old male climber rappelled off one of the ends of his rope while descending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper Knots
At approximately 5:30 p.m. on March 25, a 25-year-old male climber set up a rappel at the bolted anchors of Frigidator ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Mt. Proteus, South Face
Standing proud as the tallest peak in the Battle Range, Mt. Proteus (3,198m) has a striking south face that just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Ledge Fall – Inadequate Protection
On the afternoon of June 3, a male climber (age unknown) was attempting to lead the route Ritz Cracker, a 5.9 trad ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Diagonal Will Buttress, Mango Tango
On May 4, Much Mayr and I completed a new route on the Black Canyon’s Diagonal Wall, ground-up and in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Ground Fall – Cams Pulled Out
My wife and I were climbing at Pie Shop, a granite crag in South Lake Tahoe where we had been ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Cathedral Peak Leader Fall – Off Route, Inadequate Protection
On July 17, at 9 a.m., Yosemite Dispatch received a call from a distressed party at the base of Cathedral Peak . ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Unroped Fall From Alpine Ridge
On the afternoon of September 18, a two-person party was near the summit of Bear Creek Spire (13,726 feet) after climbing the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fatal Fall on Mt. Olympus Slab – Climbing Unroped
Celeste and her partner, both 36 and experienced climbers, were approaching the technical crux of Kamp’s Ridge (5.6) on Mt. Olympus . ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
‘Sticky’ Cam Pulls Out
On the afternoon of May 22, a female climber (age unknown) was attempting to lead the route Layback, a 5.9+ trad climb ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Dropped Haul Bag Breaks Climber's Arm
On June 16, at approximately 12:30 p.m., Yosemite Dispatch received a 911 call about a climber injury on El Capitan in the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Stranded on Mt. Hunter by Avalanche Danger
A climber departed Talkeetna on January 21 for a planned 65-day winter solo expedition on the west ridge of Mt. Hunter. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Severe High Altitude Illness
On April 17 the “Gonna Die!” expedition team flew to the Kahiltna Glacier for a planned 21-day ascent of the West ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Frostbite at High Camp
At 11:17 a.m. on May 25, a 49-year-old male and his 40-year-old male climbing partner contacted the mountaineering rangers at 14,200 feet ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
High Altitude Cerebral Edema
The four climbers of expedition “TEAM ECS’16” flew to Kahiltna base camp at 7,200 feet on May 31. Thirteen days later, on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema
On June 16, a mountain guide radioed NPS mountaineering rangers from the upper West Buttress Route to say that one of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fall While Downclimbing – Failure to Self-Arrest
On June 13, the six members of expedition “Extreme Travel” completed their orientation at the Talkeetna ranger station and flew to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Injury While Descending Glacial Moraine
Three climbers flew to the Pika Glacier on July 16, spent a few days rock climbing in the Little Switzerland area, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Avalanche
On March 26, a group from a University of Alaska Fairbanks introductory mountaineering class was out for its final climb. The ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Swinging Fall on Sport Climb
Toward the end of a full day of climbing, a group headed to the Slot Machine, a prominent feature of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Glissading With Crampons
On June 11, a female climber was descending the Avalanche Gulch route. Once below the Red Banks, she attempted to glissade ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fall From Summit Pinnacle
On June 22, shortly after noon, a 44-year-old man fell off the summit pinnacle of Mt. Shasta and sustained multiple injuries. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fall on Snow – Painful Self-Rescue
On July 25 at approximately 2:45 p.m., Bryan Bridgefs slipped and fell below Red Banks on the south side of Mt. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fall From Red Banks – Failure to Follow Route, Inexperience
At 9:30 a.m. on August 11, I (Ranger Forrest Coots) received a call from Siskiyou County Search and Rescue coordinator Mike ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ledge Fall – Inadequate Protection
On April 16, at about 3 p.m., Yosemite Dispatch received a report of a climber who had taken a lead fall ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Simul-Rappel Failure – No Backups
The names of the climbers in this report have been changed. On July 10, at 2:50 p.m., Yosemite Dispatch received a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rappel Error – Attempted to Rappel Unanchored Rope
Christopher Vale and his partner Luke started climbing the west face of El Capitan around 7:30 a.m. on September 5. (The ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall – Protection Pulled Out
The names of the climbers in this report have been changed. On October 7, Mike and Dylan started up the South ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall – Inadequate Protection
Around midday on August 12, a climbing party on Crescent Arch (5.10a) on Daff Dome reported that the 48-year-old, male leader ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Long Leader Fall – Loose Hold, Inadequate Protection
At approximately 6:30 p.m. on July 3, a two-person team began climbing the 15th pitch (5.4) of the 18- to 22-pitch route ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fatal Falls on Unusually Icy Peak
In February, three people plunged to their deaths down icy chutes on Mt. San Antonio (a.k.a. Mt. Baldy) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Stranded – Suspected Altitude Illness
On Thursday, June 2, 10 soldiers from Fort Carson in Colorado Springs attempted to climb Kiener’s Route on the northeast face ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Fatal Ground Fall – Climbing Alone
On October 25, the body of 60-year-old Dr. James Lee “Jim” Detterline was found at the base of a small cliff ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
'Take' Leads to Two Cams Pulling Out
On April 3, a 23-year-old female climber was climbing Sooberb (5.10c). Nearing the crux, a significant overhang split by a hand ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Ground Fall Before Reaching First Piece
Kurt Ross was belaying me (an experienced climber) on Guenese, a 5.11a trad route with a few fixed pieces. I ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall – Rope Behind Leg
My climbing partner, Warren (23), and I (28) had come to Garden of the Gods during a climbing and hiking trip to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Glissading Without Ice Axes
On May 26, two climbers took long falls and sustained injuries while descending from 14,064-foot Humboldt Peak. Starting in midmorning from ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Rappel Error – Inadequate Anchor Knot
In early January, two Colorado ice climbers began their third first ascent of the day in the Dark Canyon, 25 miles ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Leader Fall on Ice – Hit by Unknown Falling Object
On January 5, Dale Remsberg (44), an IFMGA guide and very experienced ice climber, was teaching an AMGA I2 Ice Instructor Course ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Avalanche
Two climbers and three skiers were involved in an avalanche in Tuckerman Ravine on Sunday, January 17. The two climbers, both ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Sliding Fall Before Roping Up
At approximately 12:10 p.m. on Sunday, February 7, one member of a climbing party of three slipped while approaching a technical ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Benighted and Stranded
On November 19, two men in their 20s started up a long climb in the Vertigo area. The pair had a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Broken Hold – Inadequate Protection
On May 28, a party was climbing at Humphrey’s Ledge, just outside of North Conway. The leader was attempting a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017