American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

25840 Records

Title Publication Year
North Sentinel: New Routes
The North Sentinel is a tooth-shaped granite face on the north side of Kings Canyon, across from North Dome and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Moro Rock: Modern Guilt, First Free Ascent
Several years ago, Tom Ruddy climbed an independent, direct line up the striking west face of Moro Rock, with hopes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Great Walls of China, East Face, Tears of the Dragon
From July 20–23, the Russian expedition of Olesya Babushkina, Marina Popova, Denis Prokofyev, and Vladimir Sysoev made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Xialong Rezha, West Face
In early November, Rob Baker, Mitch Murray, and I reached a point about 20m below the top of the previously ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Donguz Orun, South Face
I n June my party climbed the south face of Donguz Orun (4,454m) via the Dolra Glacier. We reached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Shkhara South, First Winter Ascent via South-southwest Ridge
From December 16–19, 2015, Giorgi Tepnadze and I, with the help of Davit Mchedlishvili until the last camp , made the first winter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Lapche Kang II, East Spur and Southeast Face, Attempt
Lapche Kang II (7,250m, 28°18'01"N, 86°23'03"E) lies in the northern Himalaya, about 35km northwest of Cho Oyu, in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Vishnu Killa: East Glacier and South Face
On May 21 an Indo-British party led by Francis Blunt, Adele Pennington, and I (U.K.), and Heera Singh and Mangal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Sedona Area: Long New Routes
For the past 15 years I have climbed on the often weird towers and canyons around Sedona. While the town’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Hitchcock and Arctic Lake Wall: New Routes
In late July, Adam Ferro and I hiked over the Whitney-Russell col and set up camp by a small tarn 500’ ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Edwards, Northwest Face, Jedi Gordon Edwards
Glacier National Park is a wild and remote place with sizable alpine terrain, full of possibility and uncertainty. Alpine climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Kolob Canyons, Black Diamond Wall, Melting Point
“Get out of the way, quick!” I shouted, as calmly as possible considering the position I was in. It was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Notch Peak, South Face, Airavata
From November 28 to December 9, Karl Kvashay and I established the first route up the prominent south face of Notch Peak (9,654’), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Leader Fall Onto Ledge
A climber on Foxtrot in Eldorado Canyon. Photo by Adam Brink March 5 was a beautiful, sunny day in Eldo and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2017
Gregory Butte: First Known Ascent
Over six days in July, during a cool spell of 90°F, I made the first known ascent of Gregory Butte (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Meridian Tower, First Complete Ascent, and Chameleon Peak
In March, Matt Mower and I made the first complete ascent of Meridian Tower to its true summit. Meridian Tower (7,332’), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Peak 6,020 (The Little Bishop)
In March, Walt Hutton, Courtney Purcell, and I did the first ascent of Peak 6,020’, a few miles due east of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Clear Creek, Forlorn Pinnacle, South Face
In mid-September, Oliver Deshler and I returned to the Clear Creek drainage in the northern Winds to attempt the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Lost Twin Lakes: A Little-Known Alpine Wall Gets Six Long New Routes
At roughly 10,000’, the Lost Twin Lakes of Wyoming’s Bighorn Mountains sit right at timberline. Above the upper lake loom ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Sport + Adventure: Speed Records and a Solo Ascent of the Infinite Spur
Sometimes alpine climbing is all about the adventure, sometimes it is all about the sport, and usually it is partly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Purported 1948 Ascent of Denali's West Buttress
In the summer of 2015, I learned that a man claimed to have completed the West Buttress Route on Denali three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Barrill: Birthday Party
From April 29 to May 1, Teresa Au (my wife) and I climbed a new route on the northeast face of Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Dark Star: Sandbagged Into the First Ascent of a 365-Meter Wall
“Misha, p-l-e-a-s-e, l-i-s-t-e-n, c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y,” I said, holding up the frayed static line to which we were tied. “I don’t ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Bobonung Massif and Nearby Mountains along the Yalung Tsangpo River: Photographic Expedition
In November, Tsuyoshi Nagai and AAC Honorary Member Tamotsu Nakamura (Japan) traveled to southern Tibet to identify peaks along the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite
Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite.  Glen Denny. Yosemite Conservancy, 2016. Paperback, 240 pages, $18.95. Every once in ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
A Place in Which to Search: Summers in the Wind Rivers
A Place in Which to Search: Summers in the Wind Rivers.  Joe Kelsey. Black Canyon Books, 2016. Paperback, 269 pages, $18 . In ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
Above the Reich
Above the Reich.  David Chaundy-Smart. Imaginary Mountain Surveyors, 2016. Paperback, 231 pages, $19.95 . “The Nazis said war was the same as mountaineering. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
Continental Divide: A History of American Mountaineering
Continental Divide: A History of American Mountaineering.  Maurice Isserman. Norton, 2016. Hardcover, 426 pages, $28.95 . Given climbers’ obsession with meticulously chronicling ascents ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
The Pen Y Gwryd Hotel: Tales From The Smoke Room
The Pen Y Gwryd Hotel: Tales From The Smoke Room.  Edited by Rob Goodfellow, Jonathan Copeland, and Peter O’...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
Rock Queen
Rock Queen.  Catherine Destivelle. Hayloft Publishing, 2015. Paperback, 228 pages, £12. Catherine Destivelle’s memoir Rock Queen spins the yarns of her ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
The Bold and Cold: A History of 25 Classic Climbs in the Canadian Rockies
The Bold and Cold: A History of 25 Classic Climbs in the Canadian Rockies . Brandon Pullan. Rocky Mountain Books (Canada), 2016. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
Sixty Meters to Anywhere
Sixty Meters to Anywhere . Brendan Leonard. Mountaineers Books, 2016. Paperback, 176 pages, $16.95. Brendan Leonard is a relentless machine. He blogs (semirad....
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
On the Nose: A Lifelong Obsession with Yosemite’s Most Iconic Climb
On the Nose: A Lifelong Obsession with Yosemite’s Most Iconic Climb . Hans Florine, with Jayme Moye. Falcon Guides, 2016. Hardcover, 240 ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
Warnings Against Myself: Meditations on a Life in Climbing
Warnings Against Myself: Meditations on a Life in Climbing . David Stevenson. University of Washington Press, 2016. Hardcover, 248 pages, $29.95. We’re ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2017
Langdung, South Face to Southeast Ridge (Almost to Summit)
In the autumn, Furtemba Sherpa and I embarked on an expedition with permits for unclimbed Langdung (6,357m) and Omi Tso ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Karbu Ri, South Face and Southwest Ridge (First Officially Recorded Ascent)
In November, I led a 13-member team to attempt Karbu Ri (White Peak, 6,010m GPS), which I named after a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Lunag Ri, West Ridge, Attempts
In November, Conrad Anker and I traveled to the Khumbu. Just like the year before, our goal was Lunag Ri, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Kangchung Shar, North Face, Attempt
On October 15, Simon Yates and I descended from Renjo Pass and arrived in Gokyo. The place was fully packed with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Kangchung Shar, Northwest Ridge from the South (First Official Ascent)
On November 6, Ben O'Connor Croft and I (U.K.), Joshua Jarrin (Ecuador), Pasang Bhote Sherpa, and Ang Phurba Sherpa (Nepal) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Ombigaichen: Southwest Ridge
On November 1 the Ukrainian team of Vitaly Golev, Yuri Kilichenko, Maxim Perevalov, Peter Poberezhnyi, and Yuri Vasenkov climbed a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Peak 5, Southwest Pillar
Zsolt Torok and I flew to Lukla and acclimatized on the southeast ridge of Kyajo Ri (6,189m, Holby-Kear, 2005). On October 26 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Savandurga, South Face, Deepavali with Variation Finish
Savandurga is situated 60km west of Bangalore, at 12°55'12.47"N, 77°17'35.39"E. It is among the largest monoliths in Asia, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Brammah II, South Face and Southwest Ridge
In 2011–12, Kishtwar National Park reopened after a nearly 20-year hiatus. Before then, the area had seen very little activity, but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Gangstang, Northwest Ridge
The attractive pyramid of Gangstang (6,162m) is most often climbed by its southwest ridge, the route of the first ascent, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Gupta, Northeast Face and East Ridge
In the last few years eastern Kishtwar has been on the radar of an increasing number of climbers, drawn to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Marikula Killa, North Spur
Between September 26 and October 2, Ian Dring and I (both U.K.) made the first ascent of Peak 5,755m in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nya Kangri, South-southwest Ridge, Attempt
Giorgos Margaritis, Petros Tolias, and I, from Greece, arrived in Leh during mid-August, and after acclimatizing with an ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nya Kangri, Southeast Face, Attempt
At the start of May, Rajesh Gadgil, Ratnesh Javeri, Vineeta Muni, Roshmin Mehandru, and I arrived in Leh, hoping to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Raja Peak, north face, Transcendence; Peak 6,036m; James Peak, north face, Last Chance Saloon
John Crook and I arrived in the Miyar on September 19. Our primary objective was the north face of an unclimbed 6,294...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Rassa Glacier, Lak Kangri, Southeast Face; Thrung-ma Kangri, South Face
Obtaining permits for the remote valleys of the Indian East Karakoram can be a difficult and protracted process for non-Indian ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017