American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

25854 Records

Title Publication Year
Khala Cruz Group: Patagonian Sunset, 4 Estaciones, and El Techito de la Granja
On June 3, Marcelo Gomez (Bolivia) and I climbed a 150m, three-pitch, traditionally protected route on the south face of a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pico Milluni, South Face of Unnamed Buttress, Amuki
On January 20, Sergio Condori and I deviated from the road leading to Zongo Pass a few meters after the police ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pico del Norte, Northwest Face, Shit Happens
Rodrigo Lobo and I climbed a partial new route on Pico del Norte (6,050m) in the Illampu group in July. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Chachacomani Group, Unnamed Peak, La Travesia de Winnie Apu
Shortly after daylight on September 22, Chris Knight (Canada) and I left our base camp at 4,800m in the valley that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Gasherbrum I, Southwest Face, Attempt on New Route
Czech mountaineer Marek Holecek was back for his fourth attempt at a new route on the southwest face of Gasherbrum ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Tirich Mir, Northwest Face, Ascent with Minor Variation
French climbers Jérôme Chazelas and Thomas Quillet reported reaching the summit of Tirich Mir (7,708m), the highest peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Cloue Icefield Exploration and Ascents
In March and April, as part of the multi-objective expedition “Incognita Patagonia ,” Ibai Rico (Spain) and I (USA, based in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Two New Routes on Cerro Castillo
Cerro Castillo (2,675m) is one of the iconic mountains of the Aysén Region in Northern Patagonia. Two new routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Puscanturpa Este, North Face, El Juego Sumando
It’s never easy to find a fine new line, especially when your requirements border close to arrogance: unclimbed, vertical, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Siulá Grande, East Pillar to Southeast Ridge, Le Bruit des Glaçons
In the winter of 2016, Didier Jourdain presented a photo of  Siulá  Grande’s east face to his teammates ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
New Climbs in Perito Moreno National Park
After my brother Tomas Franchini and I spent one week in El Chaltén with bad weather, we decided in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Wilhelm, First Known Rock Climbs
Rising to 4,509m above the rainforests of Papua New Guinea, Mt. Wilhelm is the highest in the country. Due to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nevado Halancoma, West Face (Not to Summit)
On June 28, Andres Marin and I drove from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. From here we continued up a paved highway (28B) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Genyen Massif, Hutsa, Yak Attack and Holographic Jesus; Peak 5,912m, West Face; Sachun, South Ridge (second ascent)
On September 17 a multi-national team of three pairs—Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata (Italy), Peter Linney (Ireland) and James ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Richard Pownall, 1927 – 2016
On my first trip to the Tetons, in 1955, I met three already iconic climbers: Dick Emerson, the climbing/rescue ranger, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2017
Komarova Valley, Pik Gronky, East Buttress and A Bang for the Buck; Pik Zuckerman, Pizzeria Komarovan
From August 21 to September 13, four members of the Austrian Young Alpinists Group—Maximilian Reiss, Manuel Steiger, Roman Weilguny (leader), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Darshaidara Valley, Imast, North-Northwest Ridge, and Other Climbs
In July, five members of the Cracow Mountaineering Club visited the upper Darshaidara (Dara Darshai) Valley, located in the far ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Shadzud Valley, Various Ascents
At the end of August, Esther Baum, Stephanie Graßl (team doctor), Marie Hofmann, Veronika Krieger, Maria Pilarski, Susanne Süß...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
South Hozomeen Mountain, North Face
On August 13 and 14, Rolf Larson and I made the first ascent of the steep and intimidating north face of South ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nevado Chainopuerto, East Face
In April, Eduardo Baca, Yjeguel Camasa, Coqui Galvez, and I climbed a probable new route up the east face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nevado Bonanta, East Ramp
On March 9, Eduardo Baca, Yjeguel Camasa, and I climbed Nevado Bonanta (ca 5,300m   a.k.a. Bonomia ), a large, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nevado Panta, South Ridge; Pumasillo, West Ridge, Rare Ascent
The Pumasillo group has the most extensive collection of glaciated peaks in the Cordillera Vilcabamba, yet only a handful of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Barrill, Birthday Party
From April 29 to May 1, my wife, Teresa Au, and I climbed a new route on the northeast face of Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Kyzyl Asker, East-Southeast Face, The Spear
From July 19–24, the Siberian team of Oleg Khvostenko, Alexander Parfenov, and Vasiliy Terekhin climbed a new route up the center ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Warbonnet Peak, Who’s on First?
In late August, Andrew Andraski and I hiked into the Wind River Range on a blind date of sorts. With ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Fallen Angel Peak, Act Like You’re Having Fun!
In mid-September, Eric Wehrly and I snagged a new and aesthetic line within a day’s “walk” from the road ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Bute, School of Rock, First Free Ascent
In 2009, Bruce Kay, Jimmy Martinello, and Jay Sinnes put up  School of Rock (1,900m, VI 5.11 A2), a 50-pitch route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Nevado Allinccapac, West Shoulder, and Historical Clarifications
In early July, I spent a week in the remote Cordillera Carabaya ( see linked report ). Our objective was the highest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Central Tower, El Regalo de Mwoma, First Free Ascent and Variations
It took a while for Nicolas Favresse, Siebe Vanhee, and I to get used to walking on horizontal ground again, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Greenland, East Greenland
Following a visit to a little-explored glacier basin in the east-southeast corner of Renland by Michel Raab ( AAJ 2013 ), Geoff Hornby ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Yalung Ri North, possible new line; Chugimago North, northwest face to north top; Chugimago, west face, Mixed Emotions
W ith the help of a friend who had visited the Rolwaling two years earlier, Nik Mirhashemi and I contacted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Karyolung, Southwest Pillar and Southeast Ridge; Numbur, Southeast Face, Attempt
I n a fruitful trip of less than three weeks, our Catalan team of Oriol Baró, Roger Cararach, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pic de l’Aurore, Aller Simple Pour Mars
The Pic de l’Aurore, in Percé, Québec, is a seaside wall at the tip of the Gaspé Peninsula, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Wilhelm, First Known Rock Climbs
Rising to 4,509m above the rainforests of Papua New Guinea, Mt. Wilhelm is the highest in the country. Due to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Gangga Range, Lilliana Peak
In September, Mark Smiley and I decided to make a foray into the “West Sichuan Highlands,” as Tom Nakamura describes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
M&M Wall, Golden Age
In the summer of 2014 I had the privilege of joining Blake Herrington and Max Tepfer to establish a new line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Morro Von Rosen, Qhapaq Ñan
In late April, Argentine climbers Matías Cruz and Facundo Juárez Zapiola visited Morro Von Rosen (5,450m), a peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Cordón los Clonquis, Three First Ascents
Cordón los Clonquis is the official name for a chain of sedimentary mountains outside Mendoza. It contains five principal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Climbs on the Volcán Antofalla Massif
A large Argentinean expedition was active on the Antofalla massif, a mountainous high desert north of Catamarca, from January 9–20, 2017. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pedra Baiana, East Face, Sangre Latina
In August, Argentinean climber Horacio Gratton and Brazilian climbers Wagner Borges, William Lacerda, Valdesir Machado, and Ed Padilha opened a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Tabuleiro, Para Temprano es Tarde
In July, Horacio Gratton (Argentina) teamed up with Lucas “Jah” Marques and Gustavo Fontes (Brazil) to climb a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Chaltén Massif: 2016–2017 Season Summary
During 2016–’17, Patagonia witnessed one of the driest winters on record. By late November, the conditions were not unlike late February, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Cerro Paine Grande, Variation
In early May, at the start of Patagonian winter, Nico Gutierrez, Cristobal Señoret, and Diego Señoret (all Chile) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Longido: Endalata Orpukely
Kilimanjaro is a superb mountaineering destination, but for rock climbers there are only few interesting crags in the vicinity . Maybe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Liberty Bell: A Slave to Liberty
In early August, Mikey Schaefer completed a difficult new route on the Liberty Bell formation . A Slave to Liberty (450m, 11 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Monte Iñaki, Southeast Ridge
From June 5–7, Max Didier, Cristobal Señoret (both Chile), and I made the first ascent of the unnamed rock peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Aspiring, South Face, Thales
Known for its iconic pyramid shape, Mt. Aspiring is often called the “Matterhorn of the South,” as it ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Altar Massif, Monja Grande, First Communion
In December, Nicolas Dávalos (Ecuador) and I climbed a new line up the southwest side of Monja Grande (5,316m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Pedra Filhote, Planeta dos Macacos, Continuous Free Ascent
In 2015, Felipe Cazmargo (Brazil) told me about a climb in the “Yosemite of Brazil,” near the town of São ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017
Mt. Watkins: Teabag Wisdom
After running into Bruce Morris, who did two new routes on the east face of Mt. Watkins, in a local ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2017