%>

Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Rathan Thadi Dome, Two New Routes India, Himachal Pradesh, Kullu

Please click here to download the trip report (PDF) from Nikhil Bhandari and Suraj Kushwaha's October 2023 expedition to Rathan Thadi Dome.

| Keywords
| Published 2023 | Author Suraj Kushwaha


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Arjuna Spires, Nakula Spire and Other Ascents Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains

The town of Bella Coola rests in a deep, shadowed fjord along the central coast of British Columbia, amid the Great Bear Rainforest. Similar to Squamish, which is far to the south, Bella Coola is surrounded by 1,000m granite cliffs, many of which ...

| Keywords
| Published 2023 | Author Andrew Councell


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Khor Ash-Sham Climbs Oman, Musandam Peninsula

Various perspectives on the second pitch of Good from Far, Far from Good (400m, IV 6b) on the southeast face of Jebel Shamm. Photo by Marius Rølland | @unrealmarius From our campsite at the edge of the Khor Ash-Sham (Ash-Sham Fjord), on yet a...

| Keywords
| Published 2023 | Author Alan Goldbetter


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mendenhall Towers, Main Tower, The Trench Connection Alaska, Coast Mountains, Boundary Ranges

In early March, Seth Classen, Keagan Walker, and I made a rare winter ascent of the Main Tower (6,910’) in the Mendenhall Towers massif, via the standard Mountaineer’s Route (1,600’, III 5.6 in summer). Prior to that, the last people to be up ther...

| Keywords
| Published 2023 | Author Dylan Miller


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Dragpoche, First Ascent via the Southeast Face; Ganchempo, Northwest Face Nepal, Langtang and Jugal Himals

From October 22 to November 5, Oswaldo “Ossy” Freire and I, both IFMGA guides from Ecuador, were based at Kyanjin Gompa in the Langtang Valley. The weather was good, and we were able to complete two ascents. Our first goal was Dragpoche (a.k.a. Y...

| Keywords
| Published 2023 | Author Joshua Jarrín


Feature Article AAJ
The Slovak Direct: Single Push Ascents, 2000 and 2022 Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali

The Slovak Direct is among North America’s greatest mountain climbs—unparalleled for length, sustained difficulty, quality, and beauty. After an unprecedented three ascents of the route in one year—all in single-push style—the AAJ is taking a clos...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Dougald MacDonald


Feature Article AAJ
Fly and Climb: Paragliding to Karakoram Ascents Points to Many Possibilities

Photo by Jake Holland Mountains and clouds are intrinsically connected: Steep mountain faces create thermals of rising air, and thermals create clouds. For the alpine climber engulfed in ethereal whiteness, rapidly forming clouds may bring mo...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Fabian Buhl


Feature Article AAJ
Buena Suerte: The First Free Ascent of Jirishanca's Southeast Face Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

Bivouac at 5,700 meters below one of the ice barriers on the east buttress of Jirishanca. Photo by Drew Smith. I’ve been home from Peru for several months—plenty of time to reflect on my experience on Jirishanca in July with Josh Wharton. Whi...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Vince Anderson


Feature Article AAJ
Dragon Mushrooms: The First Ascent of Reino Hongo on Jirishanca Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

A rickety cart lurches down cobbled streets toward the Huaraz indoor market, its driver hidden behind a heaping payload of dead pigs and chickens. Iodine-yellow snouts poke skyward, and waxy bird-bushels sway on display. I step behind the cart a...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Quentin Roberts


Feature Article ANAM
Know the Ropes: Safer Climbing Transitions

The inspiration for this “Know the Ropes” article originated from a recent change in my professional life. I’ve had the privilege of working in the National Park Service as a climbing ranger for almost two decades. After a couple of seasons on M...

| Keywords
| Published N/A | Author Dave Weber


Editorials And Prefaces ANAM
Preface

This is my second year of editing Accidents. I haven’t been involved with this book long enough to grasp all the larger trends, but I did see some emerging patterns in 2022. Climbing is becoming ever more popular, and with that comes accidents rel...

| Keywords
| Published N/A | Author Pete Takeda


Accident Reports ANAM
SEARCH AND RESCUE AWARDS

The AAC and Rocky Talkie partnered again in 2023 to solicit nominations for the annual Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Awards. These awards recognize standout rescues performed by volunteer SAR teams in the previous year, with the goal of driving g...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Rockytalkie.com and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
FATAL CORNICE COLLAPSE Canada, British Columbia, Yoho National Par, Mt. Des Poilus

On April 13, a group of ski tourers was on a multi-day traverse on the Wapta Icefields and had planned to climb the southeast side of Mt. Des Poilus (3,161m/10,370’). In clear and calm weather, they ski-toured up the glacier and then bootpacked up...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
STRANDED — Misjudged Snow Conditions Canada, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. Walker

On April 12, Parks Canada visitor safety responded to an SOS activation on the north face of Mt. Walker (3,303m/10,837’) above the Freshfield Icefield. A group of four ski mountaineers had camped and skied in the area for several days. On the 12th...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Parks Canada


Accident Reports ANAM
STRANDED — White-Out Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, East Prong

At about 7:30 p.m. on March 31, Jenny Lake rangers received a cell phone call from a solo backcountry skier. The skier said he was on top of the East Prong (just east of Mt. Owen) and could not continue due to white-out conditions and the technica...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Grand Teton National Park and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
FALL ON SNOW — Inexperience, Exhaustion Washington, North Cascades National Park, Sahale Mountain

On July 9, Eric Richtmyre (35) and Shiona Martin (23) summited Sahale Mountain and Boston Peak under clear skies. As they descended, Richtmyre was on a splitboard and Martin on skis. Martin, a mountaineering guide and former EMT, wrote ANAC, “Afte...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Shiona Martin


Accident Reports ANAM
AVALANCHE — Triggered from Below During Ascent New York, Adirondacks, Wright Peak

On February 12, a large (R4, D2.5) skier-triggered avalanche occurred on the lookers-right slide path in the Angel Slides area on the shoulder of Wright Peak (4,587’). This slide path faces northeast and was created as a result of Tropical Storm I...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Nate Trachte and Caitlin Kelly, Adirondack Community Avalanche Project


Accident Reports ANAM
LONG SLIDING FALL New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Tuckerman Ravine

On Saturday, March 26, a 25-year-old male took a 500-foot fall while attempting to descend the skier’s left side of Chute. The patient reported that the fall was due to one of his ski bindings releasing in the upper part of the run. Videos showed ...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Mt. Washington Avalanche Center


Accident Reports ANAM
SKIER-TRIGGERED AVALANCHE New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Tuckerman Ravine

On the morning of March 4, around 11:30 a.m., a skier triggered an avalanche while descending Sluice in Tuckerman Ravine. They were caught, carried about 300 feet, and came to rest on top of the debris pile above Lunch Rocks, but were not buried a...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Mt. Washington Avalanche Center


Accident Reports ANAM
AVALANCHE — Rapidly Warming Snow Colorado, Tenmile Range, Quandary Peak

In May 2022, Skier 1 (male, 38) and Skier 2 (47) started from the Quandary Peak trailhead at 7:18 a.m. They intended to ski the south gully, a.k.a. Cristo Couloir, on Quandary Peak (14,271’). Both were experienced backcountry skiers. The forecast ...

| Keywords
| Published 2022 | Author Skier 1