On February 27, 2025, Ines Papert and I established a new line on the northeast face of Breitinden on Senja. Rainborn (480m, WI5 M5-) follows a steep system of thin ice smears on the far right side of the face, eventually leading to a secondary summit. 

The conditions on Senja were far from typical for late winter. Warmth and rain had left the north face stripped of snow and nearly devoid of ice. The line nevertheless presented “just enough ice” for a continuous passage, with mostly moderate climbing, though protection was often complex and unreliable. Some sections required committing moves on thin runnels, but with creativity and patience it was always possible to arrange reliable belays. We carried a light rack: a set of cams and nuts, and nine ice screws (including a very useful 7cm screw). 

“Rainborn” refers both to the conditions we found and to the rainbow as a symbol of our success despite unfavorable circumstances. It is also a tribute to our host, Bent Eilertsen, owner of Senja Lodge, whose generosity and warmth left a lasting impression. 

While Rainborn probably will not be a regularly forming classic, it reflects the particular character of climbing on Senja, where shifting weather often shapes the opportunities.  

—Amelie Kühne, Germany

Knuuttila-Skoglund Route: On February 14, 2025, Juho Knuuttila and Sara Skoglund climbed a new route up the north face of Breitinden. Their 400-meter route (M5 90°) is now the leftmost route on the north side of the mountain. In 2022, Knuuttila and Sami Modenius completed Finnjävel, the first ice and mixed route to climb directly to Breitinden’s summit.

Breitinden Route List

Breitinden (1,001m) is the highest peak on Senja, and its north face rises above the 200-meter-deep Mefjorden, on the northern part of the island. Nine routes now cover the main wall, with only one of those (Finnjävel, Modenius-Knuuttila, 2022) topping out on the true summit. Due to the nature of the rock, most routes here require runout climbing. Its proximity to the ocean means ice conditions can be fickle.

Below is a list of the routes on Breitinden’s north and northeast faces as of mid-2025; see also the route photo in the media gallery. Thanks go to Bent Eilertsen for help with the first ascent information. Bent has hosted most of the first ascensionists listed below at the Senja Lodge and continues to climb and ski across Senja. Also thanks to the various first ascensionists who contributed information.

Routes are listed from left to right: 

1. Knuuttila-Skoglund (400m, 90° M5, 2025)
2. Finnjävel (500m, 90° M5, Modenius-Knuuttila, 2022)
3. Surf & Turf (400m, M6 AI4, Hojac-Minde-Nilsen, February 2017) 
4. Grasshopper Gully (400m, AI5 M5, Perrin-Visscher, February 2014) 
5. The Ice Princess (450m, AI4+ M6+ R, Huey-McSorley, February 2015) 
6. Fantasia (450m, TD, Middelthon-Nesheim-Olsen, 2007)
7. Crazy Maze (600m, 8+/IX WI4+, Papert-Senf, 2014) 
8. Surfing the Wave (600m, ED+, Boswell-Mercier, 2018)
9. Rainborn (480m, WI5 M5-, Papert-Kühne, 2025)