In August, Piotr Kowalczyk, Paweł Zieliński, and I (all from Poland) established a new line on Peak 4,300m, the sharp summit between Odessa and Kyrkchilta peaks in the Ak-su Valley. Our route, Phillar of Experience, followed the striking southeast arête or pillar of the formation, with a vertical gain of about 1,000 meters and climbing distance of 1,900 meters.

The route was completed ground-up over two days, August 20–21, without leaving any fixed protection. We climbed 24 pitches on largely excellent rock, with difficulties up to VII- (5.10); much of the terrain was moderate, and we often simul-climbed. The ascent was made more serious by heavy packs with bivouac gear and water, as there was no place to replenish supplies on the route. We bivouacked once at 4,000 meters. To descend, we downclimbed and rappelled the gully on the right side of the formation.

With its combination of length, clean, solid rock, and aesthetic line, Phillar of Experience may become one of the classics of the Ak-su Valley. [The northeast spur of Peak 4,300m was climbed in 1992 by a team led by A. Kotelnikov, starting partway up the descent gully. In 2023, Alex Gonzalez and Manu Ponce from Spain climbed the full northeast spur, calling it Espolón Álex Villar (see AAJ 2024).]  

—Leon Dobrzański, Poland