Great Trango Tower, First Ski Descent
Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh
On May 9, on their second attempt in two years, Christina Lustenberger (Canada) and Jim Morrison (USA), along with Chantel Astorga (USA), skied down from the main summit of Great Trango Tower (6,286m). The trio climbed and skied the normal route on the north-northwest face, first climbed over four days in 1984 by Americans Andy Selters and Scott Woolums.
The climbers acclimatized and dealt with illness at base camp for three and a half weeks before their final push. Starting from a high camp at 5,000m, they completed the ascent and ski descent in one long day.
From the summit, their route descended a hanging glacier atop the face and then continued along the narrow, snow- and ice-covered north ridge to reach the top of the broad couloir that descends southwest to the Trango Glacier from the foot of Trango Tower. Lustenberger and Morrison made two short rappels during the descent, and Astorga made a third rappel. The total vertical drop from the summit to base camp is more than 2,000m.
Lustenberger, Morrison, and Nick McNutt attempted to climb and ski the same route in the spring of 2023, reaching a point about 500m below the summit.
—Dougald MacDonald, AAJ, with information from Christina Lustenberger, Canada