Mnich and Other Ascents
Pakistan, Karakoram, Spantik-Sosbun Range

On September 4, 2011, an all-women team of Polish mountaineers—Paulina Janczar, Anna Kładzińska, Irena Kładzińska-Wituska, Joanna Nowosadzka, Danuta Przybylska, Bernadeta Szczepańska, Danuta Wach, and photographer Danuta Piotrowska—established base camp at 4,000m at the entrance to the South Sosbun Glacier.
On the 6th, as part of their acclimatization, Janczar, Nowosadzka, Przybylska, and Szczepańska left to climb three tops of around 5,000m at the southern end of the long ridge that divides the South Sosbun and North Sosbun glaciers. They were successful and returned to base camp on the 8th.
Two days later, Janczar and Nowosadzka climbed a previously unvisited rock peak a little to the northwest of base camp at approximately 35°52’7.51”N, 75°33’2.67”E. The pair climbed the southeast face in six hours and rappelled their route in another six hours. They named the summit Mnich (“Monk,” also a famous tower in the Polish Tatra) and the route Very Lucky Ladies. The lower half was generally loose or crumbly but moderate in difficulty, while the headwall was solid and steeper, giving difficulties to VI A1.
On the same day, Wach set up camp below unclimbed Nameless Peak, while Przybylska and Szczepańska went into the first glacial side valley immediately northwest of Mnich and followed it southwest to near its head, where they camped for the night. Tragically, that evening, Szczepańska died in the tent, and the expedition was abandoned.
—Janusz Majer, Poland, based on an account by Danuta Wach