Pamir Pyramid, Pamir Rainy Avenue

Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin, Ak-Su Valley
Author: Dougald MacDonald. Climb Year: 2024. Publication Year: 2025.

image_2Alex Manoliu and Ionuț Papa from Romania reached the Ak-su Valley in early July, hoping to repeat the famed Perestroika Crack on Slesova Peak and possibly to establish a new line of their own. When poor weather kept them off Perestroika Crack for more than a week, they decided to attempt a route on the west face of Pamir Pyramid (ca 3,700m), which was closer to base camp.

Using a portaledge, the two pushed the route up about nine pitches amid frequent rain showers. With only two days left in the valley, they saw a one-day weather window opening. After hiking up alongside the cliff, they rappelled and traversed to reach their high point and then added several more pitches, then continued to the top of Pamir Pyramid.

The new route, Pamir Rainy Avenue, diagonals across the left side of the west face, crossing Russendisko (2006) midway. The pair encountered a few old bolts in this area and placed numerous bolts of their own on the line, which involved mainly difficult slab climbing. The route had about 700m of climbing, with 11 new pitches; the Romanians freed most of the route, with some aid on hooks, trad gear, and bolts in a few places. They estimated those pitches could be freed at 7b to 7c+.    

            —Dougald MacDonald, AAJ, with information from Ionuț Papa, Romania



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