On the evening of July 11, park rangers received a report of two climbers stranded and unable to complete their climb on Longs Peak. Neither party was injured. Rangers remained in contact with both climbers overnight, and National Park Service SAR members started toward Longs at first light on July 12. The two climbers had set out on the morning of July 11 from Chasm Lake and had begun to ascend the Casual Route (7 pitches, 5.10a) on the Diamond. The climbers were unprepared for the conditions and did not have self-rescue or bivouac equipment. Rangers assisted the two climbers, and after climbing to the summit, they all came down via the north face of Longs Peak.

ANALYSIS

At 14,259 feet, Longs Peak is the highest peak inside Rocky Mountain National Park. For most of the year, Longs is in winter conditions, requiring mountaineering experience and equipment. All climbers should have knowledge of their climbing route, the necessary skills and equipment, self-rescue knowledge, and necessary gear for an unexpected overnight stay.

*Editor’s Note: Climbing the Diamond has become the aspiration for an ever-growing number of climbers. Although the Casual Route is rated 5.10a, it bears little resemblance to short roadside or indoor routes of a similar grade. Completing an adventure climb like the Diamond requires a long mountain apprenticeship. Being unprepared not only risks the lives of the climbers, but also endangers rescuers. (Source: National Park Service.)