Mindzhar Valley: Peak 5,914, First Ascent; Peak 5,860, New Route
Kyrgyzstan/Tajikistan, Pamir, Trans Alai
In the summer of 2023, our team from Latvia climbed two summits in the Mindzhar Valley near the Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border, which I had previously visited twice (see AAJs 2017 and 2018).
Nauris Hofmanis, Raivis Hofmanis, Edgars Madzulis, Inese Pučeka, Valdis Purinsh, Maksim Svoboda, and I arrived at the regular base camp for Peak Lenin on July 4 to acclimatize for a few days. We then traveled west by truck to a nomad camp in the Mindzhar Valley.
We ascended east to Mindzhar Pass (5,050m, 39.379996°N, 72.604869°E), where we spent one night. We then traversed south over Peak 5,400m before turning west, dropping into the glacial valley, then climbing to the broad col between Peak 5,914m and Peak 5,860m, where we camped.
On July 15, Nauris Hofmanis, Madzulis, Pučeka, Purinsh, and I went to the summit of the previously unclimbed Peak 5,914m (39.33911°N, 72.57667E°). Our route was up the north ridge and involved snowy, glaciated terrain up to 50°. We reached the top in bad weather.
The next day, all except Pučeka climbed Peak 5,860m (39.35169°N, 72.56663°E) by a new line up the center of the south face. In 2017, our team had made the first ascent of this mountain from the northeast.
— Oleg Silin, Latvia