Chuanshan Cave, First Ascent via Southwest Ridge

China, Sichuan, Qionglai Shan
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2024.

The Jiesi Valley is a little to the west of the Siguniang Range, and at the head of one of the upper branches stands Peak 5,300m (31°22’10.69”N, 102°41’4.25”E). The southeast ridge is characterized by a large hole through the mountain, giving the peak the local name Chuanshan Cave. In November 2022, Li Zongli, Zhang Yagou, and Zhao Congbiao planned to make the first ascent.

Their intention was to climb an obvious mixed line on the right side of the south face, leading directly to the hole, and then onward to the summit. However, after setting up camp below the south face, they had doubts about passing the hole, so they opted for the southwest ridge, which appeared more straightforward.

Leaving camp just after 4 a.m. on November 6, the three slanted left up the lower south face to gain the ridge, which they found to be exposed and narrow, but reasonably well protected. Higher, the terrain became very loose and more snow covered. Rockfall cut through the rope, leaving it 20m shorter. It took 12 hours to reach the summit, which they measured at 5,296m. The 600m route was graded D+ 5.10a M3 80°.

Fearing rope jams while rappelling the ridge, the team opted to descend the south face, which they accomplished with 12 rappels. They returned to camp 18 hours after setting out.

— Lindsay Griffin, with help from Zhu Leibo, China



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