Jarkya, Attempt

Nepal, Manaslu Himal
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2023. Publication Year: 2024.

In the spring, an eight-member Japanese expedition led by Daijo Saito attempted unclimbed Jarkya (6,473m, the highest point of the remote Jarkya Himal on the HMG-Finn map). Situated at 28°44'30.56"N, 84°31'28.72"E on the Nepal-Tibet border, about 5km northeast of Panbari, Jarkya was opened to climbing in 2014.

Approaching via the Buri Gandaki and Samdo to reach the Hindu Glacier, the expedition reached base camp at 4,570m on April 15. After a reconnaissance, the team opted to try the south ridge of the east top. An advanced base was established on the 19th at just over 4,800m, and on the 27th, after a period of bad weather, Camp 1 at 5,600m. That day Saito and Tatsuro Sugimoto climbed to around 5,780m, leaving some rope in place, and the following day, in much better weather than they had enjoyed previously, made a summit attempt. At 6,257m, with the team feeling tired, the weather deteriorating, and the realization that it was probably too technical to cross the east top to reach the main summit, they retreated.

Back in base camp they decided on a new plan: the southwest ridge. On May 2 they climbed to around 5,700m, at which point Sugimoto fell into a crevasse. He was extracted safely, but the team concluded the route too dangerous, descended, and left base camp on May 5.

— Lindsay Griffin, with the help of Rodolphe Popier, Himalayan Database