Purbung, Southwest Ridge; Purkung Traverse

Nepal, Damodar Himal
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2023. Publication Year: 2024.

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Purbung from the southeast. The first attempt on this peak in 2017 climbed the glacier and snow slopes on the right side of the southeast face to reach the east ridge before the final rocky section. The eventual ascent came from the far side.

Contrary to a report in AAJ 2022, Purbung (6,500m, 28°48’4.48”N, 84°1’4.41”E) had been climbed at least once before the ascent of the west face and northwest ridge in 2021. In 2017, a party approached the southeast side of Purbung from Chulu West base camp and climbed to the east ridge at a point about 100m distant and 20m vertically below the summit. Poor rock on the ridge and thin, soft, steep snow on either side blocked further progress.

Five days later, having moved camp to a lake at 5,300m (28°47'38.85"N, 83°58'58.56"E), the party ascended the glacier below the south flank of Purkung (6,128m, 28°48’54.05”N, 83°59’25.20”E), crossed the col at its head, and reached the glacier plateau west of Purbung. The climbers crossed this to the southeast, gained the crest of the southwest ridge, and followed it to the summit. The route was reversed the same day to the 5,300m camp.

The following day they headed west-northwest to reach the curving glacier west of Purkung. Following this around to the east, they reached the north side of Purkung, where they joined the cairns of the 2017 French route in a spectacular field of ammonite fossils. They followed the 2017 route up the north-northwest slope to the summit and descended the southeast ridge to the glacier they had traveled the day before.

— Lindsay Griffin, AAJ

 



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