Rasac Oeste, Zamba de los Adioses

Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash
Author: Juan Cruz Rodríguez. Climb Year: 2023. Publication Year: 2024.

image_1On September 2, I soloed a significant variation on Rasac Oeste (ca 5,700m), starting on the southwest face. This peak is a major spur of Rasac (6,017m).

I approached from Huayllapa, via the Segya Valley, and camped 300m above Laguna Caramarca (4,600m). The initial couloir on my route had two 30m sections of 70° and 80° ice, followed by a short, vertical mixed passage. After the couloir ended, I traversed to the west ridge with some steep snow and mixed sections. Once on the west side, my line likely intersected the Jaeger Route. [In 1979, Nicolas Jaeger (France) soloed the west face of Rasac Oeste (500m, TD), descended the far side, and continued up the west face of Rasac to the main summit; see AAJ 1980.] A continuous 60° couloir led up the west face to the top. The summit had a small serac in bad condition, so I did not climb the final ten meters.

I downclimbed the safest way, which again was probably along the Jaeger Route. The descent to Rasac Pass took several hours; my complete climb and descent took seven hours. I named my line Zamba de los Adioses (400m, D 80°).

— Juan Cruz Rodríguez, Argentina



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