On July 4, 2022, Maria Teresa Llampa Vasquez and I climbed a new route on the south face of Mururata (5,871m). [Although always traditionally called the south face, this broad snow/ice wall faces more southwest.] We started near Guias AGMTB, the April 2013 route climbed by Sergio Condori and a group of UIAGM guides and aspirants (see AAJ 2014).

We made a short leftward traverse to a prominent narrow couloir, then climbed this couloir throughout, finishing via the last section of Guias AGMTB, just to the right of the huge capping serac. It is a logical ice line with a few short mixed sections, and we made the ascent in just four hours. Anything falling from the large serac would sweep the route, and for this reason it is important to be fast. This is also why we called our new line Matti ma Felici (“Crazy but Happy,” ca 600m, TD AI3 M3).

—Daniele Assolari, Italy/Bolivia