In September, Tim Oates and I hoped to make the first ascent of Dih Sar (6,200m) by the east ridge. Our plan involved crossing Joshi Pass (5,423m, 36°32’25.44”N, 75°18’26.63”E) to reach a base camp on the Dih Glacier. Unfortunately, Tim got altitude sickness approaching the pass. Ultimately, he had to return to Shimshal in hopes of recovering there.

Meanwhile, porters carried some climbing gear, a tent, and supplies up to Joshi Pass so that Tim and I could continue from there if he returned, either by descending to Dih Sar base camp or by climbing peaks above the pass. I went to Joshi Pass alone, and the next day I climbed along a ridge heading north from the pass; this is the long south ridge of Shar Izat Peak (5,930m), which had been climbed previously from Boisum Pass (AAJ 2006).

I crossed two tops on the ridge (Peaks 25 and 26 on the Wala map, the latter at 5,547m), which was easy but corniced. After 1.5km, I reached a third top, the highest, at 5,696m GPS, just before Wala Peak 29 (5,720m, 36°33’25.96”N, 75°18’43.23”E). Beyond this, the ridge dropped a short distance to a col before rising toward the summit of Shar Izat.

The ground beyond looked trickier for solo climbing, so I returned to my tent at the pass. The next morning, I learned by inReach that Tim was not coming back up, so we ended the expedition.

—Compiled from a report by Peter Thompson (U.K.) to the Mount Everest Foundation

Editor's Note: The report referenced above can be downloaded here.