This occurred on June 1 on Hals-und Beinbruch (7 pitches, 5.8). On the fourth pitch, just after several meters of more engaging vertical climbing, a large rock measuring approximately one meter by one meter by 10 centimeters dislodged and pulled off a climber (male, 30). He fell approximately six to eight meters before being stopped by the rope. He suffered an open fracture of the right patella, a partial tear of the right triceps, and several cuts, scratches, and bruises.

ANALYSIS

Mont du Gros-Bras is a large rock formation (up to 1,600’ in height) with an alpine feel. The route in question is described on Thecrag.com as, “surprisingly cleaner than most climbs on that mountain, but that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t be extremely careful while climbing.” When climbing on loose rock, test all holds and avoid pulling on suspect blocks. Whenever possible, keep your weight over the feet and body close to the rock. Place extra gear when possible to avoid longer falls in areas of suspect rock. (Source: Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade. Analysis: The Editors.)