On October 5, two climbers were on the eighth and final pitch of Tonka (5.10d) on Tunnel Mountain when the leader fell sideways, hitting a small ledge. The climber sustained an injury to their lower leg and ankle and was lowered back to the belay, where the belayer called 911. The accident occurred at approximately 7:30 p.m., and it was getting dark, making it too late for a helicopter rescue. However, the climbers were only 35 meters (115’) from the top of the climb, which can be accessed via a well-maintained trail.

The Parks Canada SAR leader spoke by phone to the belayer, who said the climbing party had warm clothes and could wait for a while, but needed help to get to the top of the climb and back down to the car. The SAR team responded on foot and used a rope-rescue system to bring the injured climber and their partner to the top of the route. There, the climbers were met by two paramedics who had hiked up the trail. The paramedics administered pain relief and helped transport the patient down the trail using a wheeled stretcher.

ANALYSIS

Tonka is a well-bolted multi-pitch route. Despite the route being relatively safe, the leader was on a traversing section and the sideways nature of their fall resulted in a debilitating injury. The group was finishing the climb near dusk, so there was no time for a helicopter-based rescue, which would have been more efficient than the ground-based rescue that occurred. (Source: Parks Canada.)