Sierra Velluda, Pura Realidad

Chile, Central Andes
Author: Erik Rieger. Climb Year: 2021. Publication Year: 2023.

image_2Sierra Velluda (3,585m) is an eroded stratovolcano and the tallest peak in Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja, in Chile’s Bío Bío Region. The main, north summit was first climbed by Fahrenkrog, Kroessig, and Tilly in 1940. The southern summit, approximately 30m–50m lower, was ascended by Mercado and Sepúlveda in 1948 (AAJ 1963).

Though Sierra Velluda’s routes are not well-documented, the north and northwest slopes and couloirs are accessible from the road to the ski area at Volcán Antuco, and this presents likely ascent and descent routes. In addition, a group of Chileans reported climbing the east face in 1999. In June 2010, Greg Hill (Canada) and Donny Roth (USA) climbed a couloir on the northwest side before making a ski descent of the southeast face (45°). Juan Luis De Heeckeren (Chile) and Forrest Shearer (USA) attempted to climb and descend the same southeast face in austral winter 2017, retreating from a point halfway up.

In November 2021, Cristóbal Cattan Alamo and Ignacio Vasquez Palominos (both from Chile) climbed the first recorded route up the southwest face to the south summit in dry, austral summer conditions. The two bivouacked at 3,000m the night before the climb, then began by climbing on ice slopes on the center- left side of the face. At mid-height, they surmounted numerous rock and snow shelves, then traversed up and right on steep snow to reach a rocky notch on the east side of the south summit tower. From here, they climbed a narrow ice couloir capped by a long crux pitch on rock to reach the south summit, where they found an old register. They called their route Pura Realidad (600m, MD+ M4 6b+). They appear to have rappelled the opposite side of the south summit and descended from there. 

— Erik Rieger, AAJ, from information published by Cristóbal Cattan Alamo, Ignacio Vasquez Palominos, Greg Hill, Donny Roth, and Forrest Shearer 

 



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