Cerro Piloto, South Face
Argentina, Central Andes
Cerro Piloto (5,054m, a.k.a. Cerro Amarillo, 32°34'42"S, 70°9'3"W) is located at the northern head of the Quebrada Benjamin Matienzo (a.k.a. Las Cuevas valley), approximately 15km northwest of Aconcagua. The peak was first climbed in 1960 by a Chilean-Japanese expedition based northwest of the mountain in the Río Colorado valley (AAJ 1961). On December 16, 2022, guide Gabriel Fava and I made the first known ascent of the south face.
We approached from Las Cuevas, about 30km to the south, making three camps, with the final one on the glacial moraine below the south face at 4,490m. The conditions on the face were very dry. We climbed generally up and right via a vague snow and ice couloir containing many penitentes and a 20m rock step. On the summit plateau, we walked west to the top.
To descend, we walked east-southeast for approximately 2km to the glacial outflow below Alma Blanca (5,121m), which we then followed for another 3km south to a natural confluence where we had previously made our second camp (4,000m). We called our route Patrick and Elisabeth (500m, D).
— Henry Bizot, France