Peak 5,780m, Southeast Ridge

Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota
Author: Marcelo Scanu. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2023.

image_1In July 2022, Marcelo Delvaux (Brazil) made an unsupported, nine-day counterclockwise traverse in the central Cordillera Vilcanota, possibly making the first ascent of a 5,780m summit (13°44'5"S, 71°4'3"W), southeast of Chumpe (6,106m; 13°43'32"S, 71°4'53"W).

He started in the village of Pacchanta, to the north of Ausangate, visiting (in order) Abra Jampa (5,068m), Laguna Ticllacocha, Quebrada Jampamayo, Suyrucochapampa, Abra Huayruro Punco (5,360m), Murmurani, Laguna Sibinacocha, Quebrada Puja Orco, Abra Chumpe (5,400m), Laguna Chuyanecocha, Laguna Huarurumicocha, Laguna Mullucocha, Laguna Pucacocha, and Laguna Singrenacocha, and, finally, ending in the village Mallma.

Peak 5,780m extends from the southeast ridge of Chumpe, approximately 2km from its main summit. On day six of Delvaux’s traverse, he made camp below Chumpe’s southern glacier. From there, he began ascending the glacier briefly northward, just below the south summit (ca 6,000m) of Chumpe, before turning sharply east across the glacier to reach the southeast ridge of Peak 5,780m. This path avoids the glacier’s lower icefall but is still exposed to falling seracs. His route up the southeast ridge followed a snow ramp with one section of 55º ice near the top.

— Marcelo Scanu, Argentina



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