Wukuchu, North Face

China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan
Author: Xia Zhongming. Climb Year: 2023. Publication Year: 2023.

Wukuchu is a relatively recently climbed peak that lies around 35km southwest of the Minya Konka (Gongga Shan) group at 29°17’07.1”N, 101°41’24.2”E. It has two tops separated by a rocky col: Chu (west top, 5,526m) and Wuku (east top, 5,518m). A base camp north of the mountain at ca 4,350m can be reached by off-road vehicle from the village of Shangchengzi (3,700m). From there, the normal route climbs the northeast ridge.

On September 21, Fu Yongpeng, Wu Fei, and Zhang Junpei reached base camp and immediately moved to a camp below the north face at 4,820m. Next day, starting just before 5 a.m., they climbed a direct line on the north face, arriving at the col between the two summits. They belayed the first pitch off the glacier and then moved together while placing protection. An exposed ridge led to the west top. Subsequently, they traversed to the east top, from which they could confirm that the west summit is higher. Their route of around 600m was graded PD AI2.

— Xia Zhongming, Germany



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