Pik Chocolate, Southwest Face, New Route

Russia, Western Caucasus
Author: Dougald MacDonald. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2023.

image_2In August, Alexey Kurochkin, Konstantin Markevich, and Evgeniy Yablokov climbed a new route on the southwest side of Pik Chocolate (3,650m), a granite spire along the ridgeline extending to the north of Pik Dalar. The area is accessed along the Myrda/Myrdy River from the Uzunkol alpine camp.

The 12-pitch route required extensive aid, with the greatest difficulties concentrated in the first half and more free climbing above. The route was climbed over three days, August 19–21, and was graded 5B. It climbs a steep buttress to the left of two previous routes on this aspect: the original route (5B, 1975) and the Pugachev Route (6A, 2011). [A detailed report documenting this climb, in Russian, can be downloaded here.]

— Dougald MacDonald, AAJ, with information from Mountain.ru



Media Gallery