Siulá Grande, East Pillar, Valore Alpino

Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash
Author: The AAJ. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2023.

The first route up the east-southeast side of Siulá Grande was climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain (France) in 2016. Their route, Le Bruit des Glaçons (1,400m, ED 6c WI5), climbed the rocky, lower east pillar and mixed, upper southeast ridge to the summit. Tito Arosio, Matteo Bernasconi, and Matteo Della Bordella from Italy attempted the same east pillar in 2017, beginning 500m to the left of Le Bruit des Glaçons, crossing it, and then continuing to the right (600m of climbing before retreating).

In 2022, after abandoning the idea of climbing the east face’s big wall due to rockfall danger, Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori finished the 2017 route, which they called Valore Alpino (1,200m, ED 6c 70°). This time, they started to the right of Le Bruit des Glaçons, using the involved approach that crosses the hanging glacier below the east face. Their route had about 500m of independent rock climbing on the right side of the pillar before joining the upper 700m of mixed terrain on Le Bruit des Glaçons to reach the summit.

— The AAJ



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