Kyrkchilta, New Variation, Solo
Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin, Ak-Su Valley
During an expedition in the summer of 2022, I speed-soloed the east side of Kyrkchilta (a.k.a. 1,000 Years of Russian Christianity, 4,507m) via a long variation to the Potankin Route (southeast arête, Russian 6A, 1991). I followed the prominent ridgeline to the right of the Potankin start for about 2,500’. To my surprise, it was mostly low 5th class, but with difficulties up to 5.9. My route joined the Potankin at the base of the 2,000’ headwall. I reached the summit after eight hours on the route and descended the French Rib over the course of the next day, with many rappel complications, for a 30-hour round trip from camp.
I also soloed the Nazarov Route (Russian 5B) on Pik 4,810m (a.k.a. Pik Odessa) in 3.5 hours (15 hours camp to camp). For both of these ascents, I utilized a hybrid style, free soloing the easier terrain (90 percent of the climbing) and bumping one or two tethered pieces with me while free climbing on the harder sections.
— Andrew Pittman, USA