Trango Tower, Eternal Flame, Free Ascents
Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh
Thirteen years after the first free ascent of Eternal Flame (7c+/5.13a) on the south face of Trango Tower (6,250m), the route saw three free ascents in the summer of 2022. Eternal Flame was established in 1989 (with free climbing up to 5.12c) and various repeat ascents whittled down the remaining aid climbing until Alexander and Thomas Huber managed the first all-free ascent in 2009.
Edu Marín (Spain) free climbed the route in July on his second year of attempts, supported by his brother Álex and father Francisco (age 70). Marín climbed the route in a 28-day continuous effort, staying on the wall through an extended storm while his partners retreated to base camp. Marín led each of the roughly 24 pitches free, redpointing two of them during the descent.
Just a few days later, Jacopo Larcher (Italy) and Barbara Zangerl (Austria) completed their own free ascents in remarkable style, also on their second year of attempts. The two spent just six days on the wall, onsighting the majority of the route. (The pair had onsighted the first two pitches in 2021.) The two each led the four hardest pitches on the route and swung leads on the rest.
— Dougald MacDonald, AAJ, with information published by the climbers