On May 22, a climber fell approximately 40 feet to the ground while being lowered from The Eighth Day (160 feet, 5.13a). This classic pitch is located on the Project Wall and has chains mid-route for a double-lower or rappels. While the climber was being lowered, the rope went through his belayer’s device, and he fell, suffering unspecified serious injuries.

ANALYSIS

This accident likely would have been prevented with minimal research (the guidebook and other published descriptions make it very clear that two lowers or rappels are necessary to descend The Eighth Day) or a knot in the belayer’s end of the rope. According to reporting in Gym Climber, the leader climbed the pitch with a 70m rope. While this is not specifically relevant to The Eighth Day (an 80m rope still won’t get you down with one lower), it is worth noting that routes in certain sport climbing areas are getting longer and longer. In any case, there are very few circumstances in single-pitch climbing where you do not want a stopper knot in the end of the rope to close the system. (Sources: Gymclimber.com.)