Cerro Chaupiloma, Northeast Slopes to Southwest Ridge

Peru, Cordillera Vilcabamba
Author: Lukas Steffen. Climb Year: 2021. Publication Year: 2022.

On May 1, Jens Hassfeld (Germany), Matthias Rehder (Germany), and I left Curahuasi, where we live and work, to climb Cerro Chaupiloma (5,339m; 13°25'12"S, 72°41'40"W), which had no recorded ascents. After one hour of driving, we passed Mollepata, then drove another two hours west on a dirt road. At Marcopucro (3,300m), we left our car due to a landslide blocking the road. A few hundred meters further, after crossing Rio Comas, we entered the beautiful, uninhabited Valle Comas and hiked north. At the end of the valley, we walked in the riverbed and had impressive views of the south face of Amparay (5,408m). Eventually, we turned westward toward our goal and made camp at 4,400m.

We started at daylight on May 2, continuing for 30 minutes on a path toward the pass at Chalan (4,700m), which crosses north into Valle Santa Teresa. At about 4,600m we left the path, hiking in a southwestern direction. Most of our ascent was on the easily accessible northeast-facing scree slope. At the end, a short, steeper passage gained the glaciated southwest ridge. We ascended hard snow on the west side of the ridge and reached the summit at 11 a.m. to find great views of Padreyoc to the northwest and Amparay and Salkantay to the east-northeast. Our GPS read 5,348m. We descended the same route and reached our base camp around 2 p.m. and the car around 6 p.m.

—    Lukas Steffen, Switzerland



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