Nevado Sullcón , Southwest Face

Peru, Cordillera Central
Author: Steve Meder. Climb Year: 2021. Publication Year: 2022.

In early August, Steve Meder (France) and Edward Saona (Peru) climbed the first known route on the southwest face of Nevado Sullcón (5,650m, 11°53'41"S, 76°3'5"W). One month prior, in July, they made a reconnaissance of the face and climbed to the north summit (5,500m) of Sullcón. [The first recorded ascent of Nevado Sullcón was in 2001, though ascents in the Cordillera Central are not well documented (AAJ 2002).]

On August 8, they began their approach from Yuracmayo (4,300m), where the road ends, and then trekked to a 5,000m base camp along the Sullcón Glacier. On the 9th, they began climbing early up the center of the southwest face. The route consisted of good ice and mixed climbing. It took them 10 hours to reach the upper northwest ridge (normal route). After a rest, they continued south along the penitente-covered ridge, reaching the summit at 5:30 p.m., where they enjoyed a superb sunset. They descended the normal route down the northwest basin, reaching their base camp in 17 hours round trip (700m, TD WI3+ M5).

— Marcelo Scanu, Argentina, with information from Steve Meder, France



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