Ali Sadpara was first and foremost a great alpinist and not “simply” a high-altitude porter (HAP). He had the ambition to create a new generation of strong climbers in Pakistan and to replicate in his country a tourism industry similar to the one in Nepal. This is why he so often collaborated and climbed with foreign (especially Nepali) friends.

Even coming from a very poor region and family, Ali was very open-minded. He was humble and ambitious at the same time, with the right balance of these two traits. In the mountains, he was always so happy and enthusiastic, and in the Pakistani climbing community, he was a charismatic and much-loved figure.

Ali had climbed many of the 8,000-meter peaks, including four ascents of Nanga Parbat. It was of course a great privilege to realize with him and Alex Txikon the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in 2016. I will forever remember those days in the tent during our climb, and it was incredible how gentle he was with Tamara Lunger (who was ill and stopped less than 100 meters below the summit of Nanga Parbat), and in general how respectful he was of women. He was really a great ambassador for his country and Pakistan’s northern areas.

We had ideas and plans for future climbs together, but then came the K2 tragedy in early February 2021, when Ali, Juan Pablo Mohr, and John Snorri never returned from their summit bid. However, for sure, Ali’s death did not end his influence on Pakistan’s new generation of climbers. Now, for example Sirbaz Khan is attempting all of the 8,000-meter peaks, following the Ali Sadpara example, and he frequently remembers and thanks Ali for his influence. Ali’s son Sajid is also trying to follow his father’s example and career. He had a very proactive mentality, and this is why he is considered the “father” of modern mountaineering in Pakistan.

We will miss him a lot , but I’m sure that many young Pakistanis will continue the work that Ali Sadpara started.

— Simone Moro