Pik 5,265m (Czechoslovak Legions Peak)

Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Zaalaisky Range, Komansu Valley
Author: Michal Kleslo. Climb Year: 2021. Publication Year: 2022.

A group that I led visited the Komansu Valley in August and climbed a minor peak of 5,265m (39°23’59”N, 72°49’15”E) between 60 Years of October Pass and 30 Years of Uzbek SSR Peak. Its icy summit is clearly visible from the last pastures in the valley, at 4,050m, and the western ridge is the obvious route to the summit. In good snow conditions you simply follow the ridge (up to 45°, 2A). If there is ice you might need a rope, ice axes, and ice screws in steep sections, and it could be 2B. We found large crevasses under the summit that we passed on the right-hand side. From the summit you get fantastic views over the Komansu Valley to the west and across to nearby Lenin Peak (7,134m) in the east.

Back in Osh we discussed our climb with Kyrgyz and Kazakh climbers who think this peak might have remained unclimbed in previous years, as it is not very high. We gave it the name Czechoslovak Legions Peak. The altitude on the old Soviet map is 5,265m, but according to our GPS it was 5,245m. The group was Antonin Borovka, David Brezovjak, Stanislav Cmiel, Leszek Kocurek, Marketa Rusniokova, Zdenek Skorepa,Tomas Walach, and Lucie Zaklasnikova.

— Michal Kleslo, Czech Republic



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