On August 14, two climbers were attempting to reach the west ridge of Forbidden Peak via the Cat Scratch Gullies. The two had just switched over to rock shoes and started to travel up a gully unroped when one climber, a 24-year-old male, fell about 60 feet down rocky terrain and into the moat at the base of the gully, sustaining a left lower leg injury.

The climbing partner and a nearby climbing guide assisted the injured climber until National Park Service rangers arrived on scene. Due to the nature of the injury and patient location, a short-haul extraction was performed.

ANALYSIS

This is not the first time an accident has occurred in this area. Climbers attempting this route should be comfortable with route-finding and climbing on 4th-class terrain with limited protection. There are several ways to help prevent falls. Solid movement skills and proper footwear go a long way. In addition, climbers can consider using a running belay or short-pitching in this terrain. (The technique used depends on the climbers’ experience and terrain.) When in doubt, while traveling in exposed terrain, consider adding some form of protection. [Editor’s Note: See “Know the Ropes: Safer 4th Class in Accidents 2019.]