On July 4, a 46-year-old male climber attempted a solo climb of North Hozomeen Mountain. At 6:30 p.m., the climber was ascending 3rd- and 4th-class terrain in the south gully when he fell approximately 200 feet down 45-degree rock terrain, coming to rest in a snow gully at 6,400 feet. The climber chose to stay the night in his location and attempt a self-evacuation in the morning. However, early on July 5, the climber decided he was not able to self-evacuate due to injuries and used an inReach to request a rescue. National Park Service rangers used a helicopter to perform a short-haul extraction of the injured climber. He suffered several broken bones and a head injury.

ANALYSIS

The climber stated the cause of the fall likely was wearing crampons while traveling on rock. He had been wearing crampons for the mostly snow-filled couloir and believed he had only a short section of rock to negotiate, but the terrain remained snow-free longer than expected. Taking the time to stop and remove the crampons likely would have provided more security for him on the rocky terrain. [Editor’s Note: Although many alpine climbers are familiar with climbing rock in crampons, it may feel very awkward and insecure to the less practiced.]

The climber stated that he doubts he would have survived if he had not been wearing a helmet. He also said his decision-making may have been affected by his head trauma, and that having a climbing partner with him would have helped. (Sources: North Cascades National Park Mountaineering Rangers and King5.com interview.)