New Wall Routes in Zion
Utah, Zion National Park
In the spring, Mike Dunn and Matt Ward climbed two new routes in the Canaan Mountain Wilderness, south of Zion National Park.
Resurrection of General John Wayne (10 pitches, V 5.9 A3) is located on the southern end of the sprawling west flank of Canaan Mountain [37.082104, -113.028776] and took four days in late April to complete. The pair spent two nights on the spectacular Hamsa Bivy at the top of pitch six and topped out on the evening of day three. There was no evidence of prior visitation.
In early May, the two spent five days establishing another route to the right of Resurrection called Too Much Sex, Too Little Jesus (12 pitches, V 5.10 A4). [37.081400, -113.029276]. The duo fixed to the top of pitch three before establishing an advanced camp below pitch seven. The crux eighth pitch requiring 16 consecutive beak placements. They summited in the evening of day four, returning to the ground the next day.
In early November, with the park reopened, Dunn and Ward returned to the main canyon and completed a new route on the east face of Angels Landing: Dancin’ with the Devil (1,200’, 14 pitches, 5.9 A2+). This route climbs the first three pitches of the “unknown 5.10” listed in the Bird guidebook, after which it breaks right and follows cracks, corners, and chimneys up the east face's prominent tower. The eighth pitch through a gaping maw and the tenth pitch, which tops out on the tower, both went at A2+ and require many beaks and small gear in soft rock. The route finishes on a short, previously climbed 5.7 pitch. Every pitch has bomber bolted anchors and a nice belay ledge.
— Andy Anderson, with information from Steffan Gregory and Matt Ward