Ula-Gol, East Face
Russia, Siberia, Sayan Mountains
Ula-gol (2,911m, 51°47'34.71"N, 101°26'29.42"E) rises above the Ulan-gol Valley in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, about 200km west-southwest of the large Siberian city of Irkutsk. From just after the village of Hoito-gol, which can be reached by vehicle, it takes seven to ten hours to walk to the entrance of the Ulan-gol and then north up the valley to a base camp close to the mountains. In winter, this approach is made more comfortable by traveling on the surface of the frozen river. A further three-hour walk from this camp leads to the base of the 890m east face of Ula-gol. In 14 hours on March 27, Alexey Boyko and Pavel Tkachenko (Russian) climbed this face at 4B UIAA V-/V.
The pair left camp during the night and started up the face at 5 a.m., at times moving simultaneously. They recorded 15 pitches to the summit, although some of these are 200m in length (the total climbing length was over 1,200m). The climb was done throughout in crampons, with difficult mixed pitches and dry-tooling on granite buttresses. The summit was reached at 7 p.m., after which the main ridge was followed northwest toward the next peak, Perm, until a point where it was possible to descend a snow couloir on the northeast face, then slant north to reach the valley. Camp was regained at 9:30 p.m.
— Information from Alexey Boyko, Russia