Rótarfjallshnjúkur, West Face, Draupnir

Iceland, Öræfajökull
Author: Icelandic Alpine Club. Climb Year: 2020. Publication Year: 2021.

On October 16, Árni Stefán Haldorsen and Íris Ragnarsdóttir Pedersen climbed the west face of Rótarfjallshnjúkur (1,848m, 63°58'36.02"N, 16°39'40.24"W). This peak lies on the southern rim of the Öræfajökull, a large, ice-filled caldera that last erupted in 1727, almost due north of Hof. There are five peaks on the rim that exceed 1,800m, including Hvannadalshnjúkur, Iceland’s highest summit.

The two climbers started the approach to Rótarfjallshnjúkur by 4WD and then walked to around 1,200m, where they stepped onto the glacier at approximately 63°57'9.99"N, 16°38'11.30"W. Moderately angled but crevassed terrain led to the base of the south ridge. They then climbed the west face in three pitches: 75m, 60°; 55m, 60–75° snow/névé; 30m, AI3. The team used ice screws, Spectres, nuts, and snow stakes.

From the top of the face, they followed the ridge northeast for a few hundred meters to the top. Just before the summit is a 15m arête that is quite sharp and gave a precarious passage. The climbers descended east to regain their approach route.

Information from the Icelandic Alpine Club



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