On September 5, Evan Hartung, Mike Miller, Ben Still, and I flew by helicopter to the base of the Shark’s Tooth, an appealing peak north of Juneau that Matt Callahan and I had climbed for its first ascent in 2018 (see AAJ 2019). While Mike and Ben did the second ascent of the southeast ridge, Evan and I made the first ascent of the south rib, a steep, obvious line that arced from the base to the summit. 

After about 100’ of scrambling, we began up heavily lichened 5.7 cracks, but as the buttress steepened the cracks became cleaner, and after six glorious 60m pitches of mostly 5.9, with some 5.10 moves, we crested the top of the rib and walked a short distance to top. Ben and Mike were up there waiting for us, and after admiring the scenery around us, we descended the southeast ridge as a group and were back in camp that evening. The next day, Mike and Ben flew out while Evan and I hiked the 10 miles of trail-less mountain terrain back to the road. 

– Dylan Miller